Discover Paris in the spring, Caen in Normandy and its marvellous markets plus Yvoire, a picturesque village on the edge of Lake Geneva in Haute-Savoie. Explore Saint-Omer, a historic city in the far north that's full of secrets and treasures, and Evian, where Frankenstein's monster stayed! Head with us to Metz in Lorraine to find out about its incredible past, La Couvertoirade, one of the prettiest villages in France, and the UNESCO heritage of Avignon. Guides, gorgeous photos, what's new in France, the best tours and delicious recipes from the legendary Le Nôtre bakery in Paris - and more.
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The
Good Life France
ISSUE Nọ 29
Paris
in the spring
Spotlight
on the UNESCO
sites of Avignon
Le weekend:
in Metz
Saint-Omer,
the secret gem of
northern France
Discover Evian,
La Couvertoirade,
Yvoire and more...
Unmissable
Provence
- the must see sites
Discover
historic Caen
Magazine
Iconic cake
& croissant
recipes from the
legendary
Lenôtre's of Paris
120 pages
of inspirational
features and
gorgeous photos
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Bienvenue
Bonjour and bienvenue to The Good Life France magazine
Spring 2022 issue, and I’m absolutely delighted to be back
with the magazine after a little break and with travel opening
up again. I’ve been busy behind the scenes with a new book
out this year (Toujours la France!) and we’ve moved the
magazine onto a new whizzy platform and our new designer
Philippa has made it look even more beautiful than ever I hope
you’ll agree.
I know many of you will be dreaming of, and planning to visit
France, so I hope that you will find this edition inspirational and
the cause of daydreams!
Before I get started – a massive thank you to all the sponsors
who’ve made this issue possible, you’ll spot their adverts
throughout and I promise you this, they are the best!
This issue is going to seriously tempt your taste buds with the
most delicious pastry recipes from the famous Le Nôtre bakery
in Paris. And talking of Paris – our gorgeous photos of the City
of Love and Light in the spring will definitely make you want to
come and sit under a Parisian cherry tree.
Explore the wonderful, historic city of Metz in Alsace in the
north-east, the mouth-watering markets of Caen in Normandy
and the extraordinary town of Saint-Omer in the north of
France, which has so many ancient and secret places it is
mind-boggling. Discover the lost monuments of Paris, stunning
alpine Evian, Avignon astounding UNESCO listed sites,
unmissable Provence – and much more.
I hope I’ve tempted you to flip every page of this issue, so I’ll
let you go now, and enjoy the fabulous articles and stunning
photos.
Don’t forget to subscribe – it’s free (see page 4) and share this
issue with your friends – that’s free too! You can download the
magazine, and even print it if you prefer!
Bisous from France,
Janine
Follow us @frenchjanine
On Twitter, Instagram &
Facebook
Janine Marsh
Editor
The Good Life France | 3
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Contributors
Amy McPherson is a London
based travel writer and regular
contributor to The Good Life
France whose work has been
featured in many international
publications. When not on
assignment, she loves a day spent
riding her bike or running along the
river Thames, or relaxing with her
cat on her lap.
Sue Aran is a writer, photographer,
and tour guide living in the Gers
department of southwest France.
She is the owner of French Country
Adventures, which provides
personally-guided, small-group,
slow travel tours into Gascony,
the Pays Basque, Provence and
beyond.
Keith Van Sickle is a writer who
splits his time between California
and Provence. He is the author
of An Insider’s Guide to Provence,
One Sip at a Time: Learning to
Live in Provence and Are
We French Yet? Keith & Val’s
Adventures in Provence. Read
more at Life in Provence.
The Good Life France Magazine
Front Cover: By renowned Paris photographer Saul Aggo.
Find more of his gorgeous photos on Instagram: saaggo and at
saaggophoto.com
Editor-in-chief: Janine Marsh
Editorial assistant: Trudy Watkins
Press enquiries: editor (at) the Good Life France.com
Advertising: sales (at) the Good Life France.com
Digital support: websitesthatwork.com
Layout design: Philippa French littlefrogdesign.co.uk
Issue 29 Spring 2022, released March 2022
4 | The Good Life France
CONTENTS
The Good Life France Magazine
No. 29/Spring 2022
ON THE COVER
8 Paris in the spring
Is there anything dreamier than
the city of love in the spring?
We don’t think so…
16 Marvellous markets and
Janine Marsh heads for Caen
and discovers the historic city
has markets to drool over.
36
24 Hidden France: Jewel
of the north
With its wonderful architecture,
incredible wildlife and vibrant
town centre, Saint-Omer is
simply wonderful.
36 Le Weekend in Metz
Just 80 minutes from Paris by
train, Moselle’s main city has
something for everyone.
48 UNESCO listed Avignon
The sunny city in Provence is
home to a treasure trove of
historic buildings.
48
74 Unmissable Provence
Need inspiration for a visit
to the south of France?
Keith van Sickle shares some
of the top sights.
The Good Life France | 5
60
DISCOVER
42 Plus Beau Village
One of the best preserved
Templar Knights villages in
France, La Couvertoirade is a
great place to visit.
56 Lost Monuments of Paris
Sue Aran uncovers the stories
behind some of Paris’ most
beautiful lost buildings.
60 Spotlight on Evian
The tranquil city where
Frankenstein once stayed!
66 Active by Nature
Amy McPherson finds beauty
and adventure in unspoiled
Vercors in south-east France.
89 French Canals
Author David Jefferson cruises
the mighty river Rhône.
94
PHOTO SPECIALS
94 Your Photos
Featuring the most beautiful
photos shared on our Facebook
page.
70 The Pearl of Lake Geneva
Photo Essay of the gorgeous
medieval village of Yvoire in
Haute-Savoie.
REGULARS
78 What’s New
New series – all the news and
events you need for your next
trip to France.
78
84 Tours de France
The very best of France for
tours and holidays.
6 | The Good Life France
92 Language
New series –
5 Minute French Lesson.
118 Last word
Life in rural France.
36
GUIDES
98 Central France
A look at the property scene in
Auvergne, Burgundy, Centre
and Limousin.
103 What is a French Vie
Assurance?
The experts explain how it all
works and what it means.
BON APPÉTIT
The famous Le Nôtre boulangerie
in Paris shares scrumptious recipes…
104 Croissant
Make France’s favourite pastry
like a pro.
108 Chocolate croissant
Be inspired to make this
irresistible treat.
24
112 Brioche pudding
Utterly, butterly scrumptious
brioche.
114 French Almond cake
This sweet treat is sure to
become a favourite home bake.
116 Pain d’épices des Gâtines
Delicious and oh so moreish
spice cake.
112
4 Subscribe to The Good Life
France Magazine
Everything you want to know
about France and more
The Good Life France | 7
8 | The Good Life France
PARIS
in the spring
“When spring comes to Paris, the humblest mortal
alive must feel that he dwells in paradise”
– Henry Miller
Champs de Mars © Nathalie Geffroy
Paris is undoubtedly a year-round city, but
there is something about the spring that’s
special. Paris in the spring is a cliché but
like the best of clichés, it’s also a tangible
experience.
The air is soft and warm, the sun’s rays filter
through the cherry blossom and light up
bunches of pink and purple wisteria festooning
fences, climbing over shop windows and
doorways. The trees that line boulevards and
avenues burst into life; boules games resume
in the parks. Favourite city spots start to fill up
with people flinging off their coats and settling
in to watch the world go by from the terraces
of their favourite cafés from Montmartre to
Montparnasse. Families stroll in the parks,
The Good Life France | 9
Basilica of Sacré-Coeur at sunset
the pleasure boats float on the Seine beneath
the bridges and alongside famous landmarks,
the Eiffel Tower, the Conciergerie, the Musée
d’Orsée.
When the spring rain falls, people say, oh but
the chestnut trees smell better in the rain. The
sun rises a little earlier each morning, twilight
arrives a little later each night and the sunsets
glow every shade of rosiness from pale salmon
to burned-orange, turning the Basilica of
Sacre-Coeur from pure white to blush pink.
At the flower market in the shadow of the
great Cathedral of Notre-Dame, old ladies
wander through the Belle Epoque kiosks
choosing pots of flowers to decorate their
windowsills and balconies with daffodils, lily
of the valley, miniature roses and geraniums.
The sellers at the market rediscover their
dormant joie de vivre, their fingers no longer
turning purple-blue with the cold, and in rue
Mouffetard, the fruit sellers lay out bunches
https://www.cognac-no22.com/
10 | The Good Life France
of asparagus and sweet strawberries tempting
buyers to enjoy the taste of spring.
The public parks and secret gardens burst
into colour as flowerbeds bloom, and
strollers take a break on the famous green
chairs. Puppet shows, guignol, return and
in the Luxembourg Gardens, starry-eyed
children sail wooden boats across the Grand
Basin. Close by, flowers flourish in great
pots around the Medici fountain which
was commissioned by Marie de Medici,
Queen of France, in about 1630.
The bouquinistes open their book boxes
along the Seine and bring out their
piles of posters and books. The sun
shines through stained glass windows
of churches casting a kaleidoscope of
colours inside the cool interiors.
The famous green chairs you see in Paris parks were originally commissioned by
the Paris Senate, Sénat, and are known as SENAT chairs. They first appeared
in the Luxembourg gardens, and though you can’t buy SENAT chairs (they are
exclusive to Paris), you can buy similar – Luxembourg chairs!
The Good Life France | 11
Twilight in rue Saint-Dominique © Nathalie Geffroy
Pavement cafe in spring © Nathalie Geffroy
https://jackdawjourneys.com/
12 | The Good Life France
Paris flower market © Nathalie Geffroy
The Good Life France | 13
Parc Clichy-Batignolles – Martin Luther King, 17th arrondissement
© Nathalie Geffroy
The cherry blossom blooms around mid-
April in Paris and several parks and gardens
have rows of them including Parc Clichy-
Batignolles – Martin Luther King, 17th
arrondissement and Place Marcel Aymé.
It’s just off Rue Norvins in Montmartre,
where you’ll find a statue of Dutilleul AKA
‘The Walker through the Walls.’ Bookworms
will enjoy the cherry blossom tree in front
of Shakespeare & Co. book shop near the
Cathedral of Notre Dame. Parc Monceau,
and Jardins des Plantes are also lovely.
And if you’re a wisteria fan, head to Au
Vieux Paris d’Arcole restaurant in rue
Channoinesse, a stone’s throw from Notre
Dame to enjoy the spring blooms that
drape across the front. The wisteria here
was planted in 1946 and has its own special
license to grow large!
Rue Mouffetard one of the oldest streets in Paris where there has been a market since the Middle Ages.
Photos by Nathalie Geffroy, Paris photographer extraordinaire, find more of her stunning
photographs at : Instagram/nathparis and at nathparis.net
14 | The Good Life France
Au Vieux Paris d'Arcole © Nathalie Geffroy
The Good Life France | 15
Caen La Mer:
Markets, monuments,
museums and memorials
16 | The Good Life France
Think of Caen and most likely the things that pop into your mind will include William
the Conqueror, whose power base was here, and Caen Memorial.
Caen is the biggest city in, as well as the capital of, lower Normandy. It’s a town
with a vibrant vibe, history, grand architecture, a fantastic foodie culture and a real
community spirit – it’s all about the markets.
There is a market every day of the week here but the two big ones are on Friday and
Sunday mornings…
The Market of
Saint-Sauveur
The Friday morning market in Place Saint-
Sauveur is a stone’s throw from the famous
Abbaye aux Hommes, built as a penance
by William the Conqueror. The Pope
excommunicated the then Duke of Normandy
for marrying his cousin Matilda of Flanders
in 1053, but he was forgiven by founding the
Abbey in 1063, whilst Matilda founded the
nearby Abbaye aux Dames in about 1060.
Both buildings, each to the side of the castle
of Caen, were paid for with booty stolen
from England. And both Matilda and William
were interred in their abbeys. Marble
plaques mark the spots, though William’s
now only contains a single thigh bone, the
rest of his bones were scattered during the
French Revolution.
The Good Life France | 17
Early on a sunny Friday morning, I explored
the market which spills out of Place Saint-
Sauveur the oldest square in the city and into
the roads around. It’s probably the oldest
market in Caen too. Though the date for when
it started isn’t known, the market is mentioned
in documents from the time of Richard II,
William the conqueror’s grandfather.
About 250 traders are here, selling everything
foodie and almost everything else. Local
honey, butter, cider, calvados (apple brandy),
garlic and even ginger, saffron and yuzus
grown less than an hour from the city.
Of course, Norman cheeses are there in
abundance - Camembert, affectionately
known as God’s feet by the locals, Pont-
L’Evêque, Livarot and Neufchâtel. I stopped in
my tracks at the sight of chocolate bread and
a delicious spread of tarts and cakes. “Would
you like to try” the stall holder asked me,
smiling as I sighed with happiness – it tastes
divine. An elderly lady nodded approvingly
and told me that she never buys any food at a
supermarket, only this market and the Sunday
morning ‘big one.’
In the square, shoppers pulling trolleys and
carrying baskets and bags are watched over
by a statue of a no-doubt approving Louis XIV
dressed as a Roman Emperor. A voracious
gourmand, he was said to eat up to 300
oysters in a single sitting. With that in mind I
followed my nose to the fish market where the
freshest of scallops, which are emblematic of
Caen, sea snails, bulots, fish and all manner of
shellfish were arrayed. A group of infants on
a school trip to learn about food passed me
18 | The Good Life France
y chatting about the incredible display and
laughing at a stall called ‘Standouille’, a play
on words in French ‘c’est un andouille’ which
sells an impressive range of sausages.
Tripe of course is also sold at the market, Tripe
à la mode de Caen is the traditional dish of
the city, and they’re very proud of it here. And
it if floats your boat, pop to Boucherie Sabot
in Boulevard des Alliés near the 14th century
Tour Leroy. Sabots is Normandy’s most
famous, multi-award winning, third-generation
family producers of Tripe.
It’s an impressively beautiful, irresistibly
scrumptious market – enough to make me
want to move to Caen!
At the other end of the marketplace, the
vast ramparts of Caen Castle are imposing
The Good Life France | 19
20 | The Good Life France
and majestic, one of the largest medieval
enclosures in Europe, built in around 1060.
Though the castle lies in ruins, there are
wonderful views from the top and there are
two excellent museums – the Musée des
Beaux Arts and the fascinating Musée de
Normandie which explores the history of the
Norman people, within the enclosure.
Marché du Dimanche
Saint Pierre
The most important market in the region takes
place on Sunday morning market at the port
de Plaisance in Caen. Along the quay of the
bassin Saint-Pierre, on Place Courtonne and
Quai Vandeuvre, you’ll find a whopping 400+
traders selling pretty much everything. There’s
a mind-boggling array of local products
straight from the farm, olives from Provence
and goods from all around France, artisan and
craft goods, clothes, homeware and more.
Families amble, browse and buy, stopping to
look out over the port at the boats bobbing
up and down, their anchors clanging gently,
while birds hover waiting for titbits. Keen cooks
buy the freshest produce for the all-important
Sunday meal, and baskets are filled with food
for the week ahead.
What really surprised me about this market
was the dizzying amount of street food
stands. Great steaming bowls of aromatic
noodles and cauldrons of prawns and shellfish,
irresistible Brittany style galettes, succulent
roasting chickens, even vegan.
Where to eat out:
Caen is a foodie’s paradise and the local
restaurant chefs are often to be seen at the
city’s markets. You’ll find heaps of choice
when it comes to eating out, these are just a
few of my favourites:
L’Aromate, 9 Rue Gémare, 14000 Caen.
laromate-caen.fr
Superb menu and it’s all about the ingredients
– the freshest fish and vegetables and chef.
The staff are friendly, the ambiance is great –
you simply can’t go wrong here.
The Good Life France | 21
https://www.sophiesgreatwartours.com/
https://parischanson.fr/
22 | The Good Life France
L’Okara, 24 Rue Froide, 14000 Caen.
lokara.fr
Welcoming organic and ethical vegetable
restaurant that’s perfect for vegetarian and
vegan dining.
Une Cuillére a Carrée, 22 Rue de Bernières,
14000 Caen. unecuillerecarree.fr
A real favourite with the locals for its refined
and delicious menu.
Le Pt’tit B 15 Rue du Vaugueux, 14000
Caen. leptitb.fr
In an ancient building in the medieval district,
in a picture postcard pretty street, in the
shadow of the great castle ramparts with a
superb menu and delicious cocktails – an
absolute winner.
Bouef and Cow, 6 Boulevard des Alliés.
boeufandcow.com
Elegant and welcoming setting overlooking
the beautiful church of Saint-Pierre and
serving Normandy’s finest burgers and meaty
dishes.
La Ferme de Billy, 29 bis, 31 Rue de l’Eglise,
14980 Rots. ferme-de-billy.com/en
A 15-minute drive from Caen city centre
brings you to the glorious apple-growing
countryside of Normandy – and a traditional
cider farm. The Ferme de Billy’s weekend
brunch and Thursday/Friday lunch buffet is
the best I have ever been to. A huge choice
of local products, beautifully cooked and
presented. Afterwards take a walk around the
estate with its 13th century chapel. A must if
you’re in Caen.
Where to stay
I stayed at the 3* Hotel Des Quatrans,
17 rue Gémare, 14000 Caen.
hotel-des-quatrans.com It’s in a tranquil spot
but just steps from the city centre, ideal as a
base to visit Caen and the wider area.
Go Trade is a European
project which since 2017
has worked with English
and French partners to
support and preserve the role that traditional
markets play in daily life. Find our more at:
gotrade-markets.eu
Details of markets and what to see and do in
Caen: caenlamer-tourisme.com
Did you know: Caen is one of
those tongue-twister words
non-French find really hard
to say. Some say it like ‘con’
which in French means idiot
(or worse). It’s more like
‘Carn’ –pronounce the ‘n’ but
emphasise the ‘r’!
The Good Life France | 23
Marché St-Omer©Office de tourisme de la Région de Saint-Omer
Saint-Omer –
quintessential
northern France
24 | The Good Life France
Why head to the south of France when the north has so much to offer? I get it. It’s what almost
everyone does. “It’s wall to wall sunshine in the south” they say. “There are beaches. The food is
fabulous. The map says follow this route for a whole day.”
But take it from me, stop off in the north of France and you’ll find out why that habit of heading
south needs to change. Discover a part of France that’s truly authentic, where the food is
sensational, the countryside is idyllic and the seaside is glorious. There are historic towns
and cities, battlefield and remembrance sites, world-class museums, gorgeous little villages,
spectacular countryside with great cycling and hiking routes, water sports and some activities
that are unique. And if that sounds tempting – then I know just the place for you… Saint-Omer is
an absolute jewel of the north of France.
The Good Life France | 25
26 | The Good Life France
https://www.dfds.com/en
Saint-Omer
Saint-Omer in the Pas-de-Calais department
is just 30 minutes from Calais by car and
2.5 hours from Paris by car or train. It is
a town that has an extraordinary history
spanning millennia. The Romans set up shop
here. Thomas Becket AKA Saint Thomas
of Canterbury, took refuge there. Three of
America’s Founding Fathers studied at the
Jesuit Chapel. Saint-Omer is the symbolic
home of the British Royal Air Force and
it’s where Douglas Bader, hero of the RAF
in WWII was shot down, escaped from his
captors and was sheltered in the town.
And surrounding Saint-Omer is some of the
most bucolic countryside in France, with
shades of the Dordogne.
Visit the town
Start your visit at Place du Maréchal Foch
in the centre of the town. It’s lined with
gourmet food shops and cafés that are
perfect for sitting outside and watching the
life of the town go on. Behind the theatre
which dominates this ancient square, is Guy
Delalleau’s delicious boulangerie/patisserie –
his cakes are like small works of art and taste
as good as they look – it’s not to be missed.
Around the squares are cobbled streets with
300 year old merchants houses and majestic
manors, a place that lures artists to capture
the topsy-turvy Flemish style. The River Aa
runs through the town and makes for a pretty
walk and if you happen to be there in the last
week in July, you’ll be able to join in the fun of
the annual nautical procession, a carnival of
floats on water!
Park your car (there are several free car parks)
and pick up a map from the tourist office
which is in a tranquil green area behind the
Cathedral and where you can sit on Paris style
park chairs at the café and listen to those
mellow bells ring. And if you go on Saturday
morning, you’ll find one of the best markets in
the region. Saint-Omer is a place to wander,
and discover it’s many secrets…
The Good Life France | 27
Saint-Omer Cathedral © A-S Flament
Notre Dame
The former Cathedral of Notre Dame is a
stunning, flamboyant 13th century Gothic
church and inside is even more impressive.
It houses the tomb of Saint Omer, medieval
funeral slabs, a several centuries old statue of
Christ and a collection of paintings including
The Descent from The Cross by Rubens. There
are several ornate marble side chapels inside
one of which hangs an RAF regimental flag, a
reminder that the aerodrome at Longuenesse
on the outskirts of Saint-Omer is the spiritual
home of the RAF, the successor to the Royal
Flying Corps who had their HQ here during
WWI. The Cathedral also houses a mindboggling
astronomical clock dating to 1588,
one of the oldest in France, and a vast 300
year-old 115-pipe organ, a listed historic
monument, which if you are lucky enough
to hear played, will leave you with a lasting
memory.
Saint-Omer Cathedral, to the left Louis XIV's doors under the astronomical clock
28 | The Good Life France
Palais de Cathédrale
Around the great Cathedral are beautiful
mansion houses including the Palais de la
Cathédrale at 12 Rue Henri Dupuis. Owner
Jean-Luc Montois has spent the last few
years restoring it to look as it did two hundred
years ago when it was lived in by a local
merchant. Although Jean-Luc lives there, he
has opened it to the public and to enter is
like stepping back in time, an extraordinary,
exquisite home that is filled with wonderful
treasures that he has collected for many
decades. It’s so extraordinary in fact, that
we’ll bring you a whole article about it in the
next issue of the magazine. Book a tour via
Saint-Omer tourist office
A sumptious Theatre
The locals affectionally call the exquisite
domed building which dominates the Place
du Marechal Foch - Le Moulin à café, the
coffee grinder. Completed in 1840 on the
site of the former 14th century Alderman’s
Hall, it became the Town Hall complete
with an opulent Italian-style theatre which
gave the local bigwigs bragging rights. The
theatre closed in 1973 and for 45 years was
hidden from sight. In 2018, after restoration,
it reopened to the public, complete with the
original stage machinery. In its day it attracted
some of the most well-known performers of
the time including Edith Piaf and Luis Mariano.
Under an ornate ceiling, the circular operastyle
theatre has three balconies and private
boxes. Book tickets via labacarolle.org
Ancient Library
From the outside, the municipal library in
Saint-Omer does little to tempt, a modern
building of the sort found in every town in
every country. But – go inside, head to the first
floor and discover the wood-panelled former
Jesuit Chapel library filled with thousands
of ancient books some of which date to the
Palais de la Cathedrale entrance
Shakespeare First folio © Y CADART
7th century. Their collection includes a first
volume Gutenberg Bible, less than 50 of the
original 180 copies thought to be printed have
survived. Not long ago, an eagle-eyed librarian
dusting the shelves spotted a Shakespeare first
Folio. Those two books alone are worth some
$50million.
The Good Life France | 29
Saint-Omer theatre
https://perigourmet.com/
30 | The Good Life France
The Jesuit Chapel
Next door to the library, the Jesuit Chapel
was built from 1615 to 1640 by Jean du Blocq
(1583-1656), a Jesuit architect who also
designed the Cathedral of Luxembourg. He
was inspired by Gesù, the Jesuit church in
Rome, combined with Gothic style. It’s here
that Founding Fathers Charles Carroll, signer
of the Declaration of Independence, Daniel
Carroll, one of the Constitution’s two authors,
and John Carroll who became America’s first
Catholic Bishop and founder of Georgetown
University, spent many years studying. It’s now
used as a performance and cultural venue,
though is currently undergoing a restoration.
Abbey of Saint-Bertin
By the neo-classical train station of Saint-
Omer, one of the most beautiful in France
and a listed historic monument, you’ll find
the remains of Saint Bertin’s Abbey. Sadly
destroyed during the French Revolution, it was
at this location on the edge of the marsh that
a Swiss monk called Omer, sent to become
Bishop of nearby Thérouanne in 637, founded
an abbey in what was known then as Sitiu. It
became the Abbey of Saint Bertin, named
after one of Omer’s helpers, while the town
that grew up around it became Saint-Omer.
The abbey was expanded over the years and
was updated to the Gothic style now evident
in the ruins.
It was here in 1165 that Thomas Beckett who
became a Saint, sought refuge from Henry
II. The abbey became so important that a
prince’s quarters was built for visiting Kings
and Queens. Francis 1 came here on his way
to the Field of the Cloth of Gold Summit with
Henry VIII in nearby Guînes. Historians believe
that Anne Boleyn may also have been there
in the retinue of Queen Claude, wife of King
France, though no one knows if she met Henry
VIII at this time. Coincidentially, it was from
Saint-Omer that Henry VIII later sought a
swordsman to lop off poor Anne’s head.
Louis XIV also came here in 1677 when Saint-
Omer, which had been under Spanish rule,
was taken back by the French. He visited the
floating islands of the marshes that surround
the town, famous even then. In fact he was
so impressed he returned three years later
with the entire royal family and the court
and stayed at the Governor’s Hotel at the
spot where the Sandelin Museum now is. The
people of Saint-Omer marked his first visit
with an inscription on the grand doors to the
Cathedral, which is still there. Louis rewarded
the town by having his engineer Vauban
reinforce the rampart walls which now encircle
a beautiful park.
The Good Life France | 31
Sandelin Museum by Jean-Pol Grandmont
Musée Sandelin
The museum contains works by Flemish, Dutch and French masters, tapestries, plus a wonderful
collection of ceramics and a fascinating clay pipe collection which pays homage to the towns
past as an important producer of pipes and pottery.
After you’ve enjoyed the many attractions of the town, nip to the countryside on its
doorstep and discover the Clairmarais, the UNESCO listed biosphere marshland
where you can take a boat ride and discover the wildlife, unusual residences and
much, much more...
2CVs at Belle Echapees
32 | The Good Life France
The Audomarois
Marshlands
Hire a boat or take a guided ride in traditional
wooden bacoves along tree-lined canals
buzzing with bird life, where migrating herons
stop off and the postman delivers post by
boat, the only area in France with such a
service to homes which sit on floating islands
in the marshes. This 15 square mile network
of canals and farmland is unique in France
and a UNESCO-listed Biosphere Reserve. It
was started by monks in 638. They diverted
the River Aa, divided the land into plots and
farmed the land. Today a few dozen market
gardeners continue to work the plots. It is
the cauliflower capital of France with some
5million grown each year.
Visit the Maison du Marais, less than 10
minutes on foot from the centre of Saint-
Omer. It’s dedicated to the history of the
marshes, features exhibits, an educational
garden, and boat tours of the marshes.
lamaisondumarais.com/en
Marshland activities
Meet the last of the Saint-Omer boat
makers: In a wooden shed on the edge of the
marsh, a team of enthusiasts make up the
last Audomarois shipyard in existence. Take a
fascinating guided tour, and discover how this
family business continues to hand-make the
traditional wooden boats of the marshes using
500 year-old plans and wood that is up to 100
years old.
You can also hire a boat here:
lesfaiseursdebateaux.fr
Explore in style: Hire a 2CV, VW camper van
or vintage electric bikes for a day, half-day or
weekend. les-belles-echappees.com
Beer: While you’re at their office, nip to the
brewery on the grounds of an extraordinary
Abbey. Founded by Saint Bernard de
Clairvaux in the 12th century, the once
monumental Monastery of Clairmairais was
yet another victim of the French Revolution
The Good Life France | 33
Laurent Delafosse Abbaye de Clairmarais brewery
and now just ruins remain. There was a
brewery on the grounds until 1790 and it’s
here that Laurent Delafosse now brews his
fabulous beers. abbayedeclairmarais.fr
True beer lovers shouldn’t miss a visit to
the Brasserie Goudale in nearby Arques,
a branch of the Brasserie de Saint-Omer
company, a hugely successful brewery
started by the legendary André Pecque AKA
the ‘King of Beer’. Some of his best known
brews include La Goudale (Old English for
good ale), Saint-Omer and Le Panaché.
Brasserie-goudale.com
Rando Rail: Pedal a 4-person kart on an old
railway line through leafy woods and across
fields on a 10km ride. www.rando-rail.com
Close by
La Coupole is an unmissable visit just 7km
from Saint-Omer. Beneath a 72 metres
wide, five-and-a-half metres thick, 55,000
tonne concrete dome, Hitler had a secret V2
rocket base built. A strike to the entrance put
paid to its aim to churn out bomb-carrying
Clairmarais
34 | The Good Life France
ockets. Today it is a fascinating and
haunting historical and scientific museum.
You get goosebumps when you walk into
the chilly and chilling 20 metre high tunnels
where the V2 rockets were prepared for
launch. This former bunker is also the home
of the most advanced planetarium in the
world. With a unique 15m wide screen with
10K resolution, the seats are interactive with
audience response technology and the 3D
films (D-Day Normandy, 1944; Explore and
Voyager which make you feel as if you’re
in space with astronauts) are nothing short
of utterly incredible. I promise you I gasped
out loud and ducked when rocks from Mars
came hurtling towards my head!
lacouple-france.com
Vintage train ride: in nearby Arques, hop on
a steam train or vintage train and explore
the gorgeous countryside in style on the Aa
Valley tourist railway. cftva62.com
Day at the seaside: Saint-Omer is around
one hour from the glorious beaches of
the Opal Coast including Wimereux with
its Belle Epoque villas, Audresselles an
authentic little fishing village and historic
Boulogne-sur-Mer.
Where to eat
Traditional: La Baguernette on the edge of
the marshes, and next to the embarkation
point for a boat trip. Their speciality is suckling
pig cooked in milk for eight hours in a woodfired
oven. They also serve local favourite beer
tart, utterly irresistible. labaguernette.fr/en
Upmarket: La Bacôve, opened by Top Chef
winner Camille Delcroix. Refined, innovative
and seriously scrumptious food in a beautiful
setting. You can expect something with
cauliflower on the menu soon as the chef
will in 2022 be inducted into the Saint-Omer
Confrérie du Chou Fleur (Brotherhood of
Cauliflower). restaurant-bacove.com
Tourist office: tourisme-saintomer.com
The Good Life France | 35
Le Weekend
Metz, Lorraine
Janine Marsh explores the historic city
of light where a dragon once lived…
36 | The Good Life France
Place Saint-Louis © Arnaud Hussenot
“Anyone been to Metz?” I asked in my local bar in the
Seven Valleys, Pas de Calais. There was silence. Even
in France, Metz is not well known and if you’re from
outside of France you might not even have heard of it.
Metz is in the north-east of France, in the
Moselle department. It is the capital of the
region formerly known as Lorraine, now
joined up with Champagne, Ardennes and
Alsace and called Grand Est.
Metz is one of France’s oldest cities with a
history going back some 3,000 years and
the fact that it is rather under the tourism
radar is astonishing. Close to Luxembourg
and Germany, it is a superbly gastronomic
city. It is historic, architecturally glorious,
home to arguably France’s oldest church -
the basilica of Saint-Pierre-aux-Nonnains
which began life in the 4th century, and
a Cathedral which has one of the largest
expanses of stained glass windows in the
world. There are magnificent museums
including a branch of the Pompidou, the
city is surrounded by glorious, mountainous
countryside – and yet, it’s less than an hour
and a half from Paris.
48 hours in Metz
Metz is steeped in history and character.
It’s a city of architectural contrasts, with
a medieval district, classical 18th century
architecture in the Place d’Armes and Palais
de Justice, the enormous neo-Romanesque
train station built by the Germans at the
start of the 20th century, and a modern side
too including the extraordinary Pompidou
centre behind the station.
It’s a compact city that’s easy to discover on
foot, but if you want to take it easy there's a
free hop-on-hop off navette bus, and there
are loads of cosy café’s and funky bars to
tempt you to stop awhile.
The must-sees
The great Gothic cathedral of Metz
In medieval days, Metz was a mecca for
artists and the Cathedral St Etienne, the
third highest nave in France, beautifully
illustrates the skill of stone masons and
artisans of the day. Made from golden local
Jaumont stone it has stood for more than
800 years (built between 1220-1522). The
vast stained glass windows (69,920 sq ft)
have earned it the nickname ‘God’s Lantern’.
The windows here range from medieval
masterpieces by Hermann de Münster and
Thiébauld de Lixheim to striking modern
panes by Jacques Villon and Marc Chagall.
During WWII windows were removed and
stored in crates, sent to Château de Dissay,
near Poitiers. This didn’t save them however,
they were discovered and sent to Germany.
Miraculously they were found in a salt mine
and returned to their home after the war.
At night the cathedral is illuminated and is
one of the reasons the city is known as the
Ville Lumières.
Museums
Housed in an old Carmelite convent, Le
Musée de la Cour contains three museums.
The Musée Archaeologique has one of
the most important collections of Gallo-
Romain archaeology in France including
ancient baths preserved in situ. The Musée
d’Architecture showcases Romanesque
and Gothic pieces. And the Musée des
Beaux Arts includes works by a range of
prominent artists including Delacroix,
Corot and Sargent.
The Good Life France | 37
Cathedral of Saint-Etienne (1)
https://chateau-masburel.com/
38 | The Good Life France
Train station of Metz © Philippe Gisselbrecht
Pompidou Centre
A regional branch of Paris’s Pompidou
Centre opened in Metz in 2010. The
avante-garde building, which is highlighted
by an undulating roof, houses an extensive
collection of modern art. The 77-meter
high spire is a nod to the year 1977, when
the Paris Center Pompidou opened.
Modern and contemporary art exhibitions
are regularly updated. The centre has a
café and a very nice restaurant with a
terraced area.
The Graoully – Metz’s dragon
The legend goes that a terrible dragon named
the Graoully terrorised the people of Metz
until the city’s first Bishop, Saint Clement,
drowned it. It’s said that the Bishop led the
dragon from its lair, along a narrow road to
the River Seille, warning onlookers “Taisonsnous/keep
quiet, don’t wake the monster.’
Stroll along the pretty cobbled street of what
is now called rue Taison, and look up, away
from the many boutiques and cafés, and
you’ll spot the Graoully, hanging over you!
The Imperial Quarter
Between 1902 and 1914, the Imperial
Quarter around the train station was built
to strict Germanic town planning principals.
Originally called Neue Stadt (new city)
the area has some of the best preserved
examples of German Empire urbanism,
especially the luxurious villas on Avenue
Foch and the remarkable train station.
Don’t miss
Porte des Allemands and the ramparts:
The old city gate (Gate of the Germans)
and a miniature fortified medieval castle
spans the river Seille. The ramparts once
formed a 5.5km enclosure enclosure
punctuated by 12 gates and 76 towers.
You can follow the ramparts path along the
river Moselle.
The Good Life France | 39
Port de plaisance ©Philippe Gisselbrecht
Head to the Quai des Régates and take an
electric boat tour– you can even combine
it with wine tasting or aperitifs. And take a
break in the park at Metz Marina, Port de
Plaisance.
Les Halles: The U-shaped covered market
on Place Jean-Paul II has a superb range of
food including a shop selling local Mirabelle
(plum) brandy. Take a break at the market
bistro L’Assiette du Marché or pick up
something delicious like fuseau lorrain, a soft
garlic sausage that’s a regional specialty
from Chez Mauricette opposite.
The squares: in the heart of Metz,
renovated squares such as the Place de
Chambre (nicknamed the gourmet square
of Metz), the Place d’Armes (the medieval
Place Saint-Louis, and the Place de la
République offer a place to relax. Place
Jeanne d’Arc is just perfect for summer
drinks and dining
https://sommailier.com/TheGoodLifeFrance/
40 | The Good Life France
Where to eat
El Theatris in Place de la Comédie on the
Petit Saulcy island in the centre of Metz serves
gastronomic food with an emphasis on local,
seasonal products. One of the dining rooms is
the former office of the Marquis de La Fayette,
French aristocrat and American Revolution
War hero. He was appointed commander of the
French army at Metz in 1791.
Head out of the city to Sarreguemines
(around an hour by car) for a Michelin star
feast created by Chef Stephan Schneider at
the gorgeous 4* hotel Auberge Saint-Walfrid:
stwalfrid.fr
Where to stay
4* MGallery La Citadelle Hotel in a former
16th century military building for its superb
décor and fabulous view over cathedral from
some rooms. 5 Av. Ney, 57000 Metz
Info
Trains to Metz run from Gare de l’Est, Paris
and take from 83 minutes.
tourisme-metz.com
Summer garden in the Place de la Comédie © Philippe Gisselbrecht-Ville de Metz
Did you know?
Metz is pronounced Mess which is
not a grammar thing – it’s unique
to Metz. In fact, says Vivienne
Rudd from Metz tourist office, even
most Messins (people of Metz)
don’t know why it’s pronounced this
way. Metz was called Divodorum
Médiomatricorum in Gallo-
Roman – a bit of a mouthful
and horrendous for inscribers
of the day. In the 5th century, it
was shortened to Mettis then to
Mets, Mèz, Mès, Metz and Mess in
the 14th century. A recent article
suggests that 17th century French
printers wanted to use the German
“ß” symbol to represent the
double “s”, but didn’t have one, so
replaced it with something that
looked (a bit) like it: “tz”, but the
old pronunciation stuck... why?
Because it’s easier to say!
The Good Life France | 41
Plus
© TripUSAFrance
42 | The Good Life France
Beaux Village de France:
La Couvertoirade
La Couvertoirade may be one
of the prettiest places in France
that you never heard of says
Janine Marsh...
The Good Life France | 43
© TripUSAFrance © TripUSAFrance
Deep in the heart of the Aveyron
department, southeast France, the little
village of La Couvertoirade provides a
glimpse into a long-gone past. It is one of
the best preserved Templar Knights villages
in France, and it’s a classified plus beaux
village – officially one of the prettiest villages
in France…
La Couvertoirade is located in territory
known as the Causses and Cevennes, a
UNESCO classified World Heritage site,
listed for its ‘agro-pastoral cultural landscape
of the Mediterranean’. It’s a rather dry
description of a stunningly beautiful area
of France with exquisite countryside where
villages in the valleys look as though they
have been hung on the sides of the hills
like baubles on a Christmas tree. The area
touches on four departments: Aveyron and
Lozère in the Midi-Pyrénées region, and
Gard and Herault in Languedoc-Roussillon.
La Couvertoirade looks out over the Larzac
plateau, a land of fertile valleys and villages
which seem to grow out of the rocks. In the
12th century, this area was considered the
private fiefdom of the crusading Knights
Templar and later the Knights Hospitaller. And
in La Couvertoirade you’ll find the only castle
built by the Knights Templar in France.
There’s plenty to see and fall in love with as
you wander the narrow cobbled alleyways
lined with ancient houses. The atmospheric
14th century church of Saint Christophe
is reached by steps cut into the rock. The
14th century Windmill of Le Rédounel is the
only restored windmill in Aveyron, from its
hilly position you have fabulous views over
the village. The wonderfully well preserved
Templar castle was built at the end of the 12th
century and last updated in the 15th century.
It sit atop a rocky spur, dominating the town
with its imposing high walls.
44 | The Good Life France
© TripUSAFrance
“It’s so extraordinary that when you walk
around the medieval ramparts, you know that
these walls are original. It’s easy to imagine
that the Knights Templar and generations of
people since have walked here and looked out
at the astonishing views for hundreds of years”
says Julia Girard-Gervois of TripUSAFrance.
“It never ceases to amaze me just how
absolutely gorgeous this village is with its
cobbled streets, beautiful grey stone houses
and flowers and vines everywhere. It’s been
likened to a miniature Carcassonne and it
really is incredibly pretty.”
Just an hour’s drive from the city of
Montpellier and close to the beautiful village
of Saint-Guilhem-le-Desert, La Couvertoirade
has an epic history. “This is no museum town
though” says Julia “it’s brimming with history
and vibrant with artisans, potters, wool
spinners and more. It’s not hard to imagine it
how it was in the days of the Templars. There’s
even a communal bread oven at the windmill
which has been restored and once a week you
can taste bread and other local specialities.”
This little village certainly lives up to its Plus
Beaux Village award…
The Good Life France | 45
The Knights Templar
The Knights Templar was a military
organisation of devout Christians founded
in 1118. They originally formed with the
aim of protecting pilgrims journeying
to the Holy Land and in 1129, they were
endorsed by Bernard of Clairvaux, a
prominent French abbot who became
a saint, Ten years later Pope Innocent II
© TripUSAFrance gave the Templars special rights including
exemption from paying taxes and only
answering to the authority of the Pope.
Members swore an oath of poverty, chastity, and obedience. The Templars became a
wealthy and influential group with a network of banks which lent money to royal families
and the aristocracy. They owned a sizeable fleet of ships and land, built numerous castles
and became a powerful army. Almost 200 years after they began, the Templars were
dissolved by Pope Clement V and some of their assets were passed to the Hospitalier
Knights. Mystery surrounds the history of the Templars and continues to fascinate to
this day. In the 18th century the Freemasons revived some of their symbols, rituals and
traditions. Some believe that the Templars are still in existence and they were a key part
of Dan Brown’s popular book The Da Vinci Code…
https://tripusafrance.com/
46 | The Good Life France
3 Must-sees in Aveyron
Aveyron is a land that echoes with the past. Every densely wooded gorge and valley, every
ancient bastide town and every winding road seems to whisper of the footsteps of pilgrims
making their way south, of Romans and rebellious Gauls or of Knights Templars, thundering
across the plateaux. It’s a place where you’ll find picture-postcard-pretty medieval villages,
historic towns, rolling valleys and vast canyons where rivers roam and forests reach to the
sky. Here you’ll find authentic markets, ancient churches clinging to rocky cliffs and divine
cathedrals with soaring towers. There are ancient castles and museums galore, it’s a land that’s
rich in natural beauty, as well as cultural and spiritual. We picked just 3 of the many must-sees
in Aveyron:
Conques This is a village with an inescapably
spiritual feel, with its towering masterclass in
Romanesque engineering and architecture
(the Abbey of St. Foy) and the very tangible
memory of the weary feet of pilgrims, shuffling
along the well-worn streets. The village has
a genuine sense of hushed reverence with
its medieval walls, slate roof tops, forgotten
gates, time worn 11th century fountains,
narrow, cobbled streets and views that
leave you in stunned and silent awe and
contemplation. Read more about Conques
Belcastel
Conques
Belcastel The village is well deserving of
its “plus beaux villages de France” status
because, yet again, here is a place in the
Aveyron that is shockingly beautiful, with the
gentle tumble of water from the River Aveyron
in the background and its steep, cobbled
streets leading up to the castle. If you’ve got
the time, have lunch at the Vieux Pont (a
Michelin star restaurant in the village) and
then walk off your indulgences with the climb
(and it really is a climb) up to the castle.
Rodez
Rodez which is certified as a “grand site Midi
Pyrénées and “pays d’art et d’histoire” is a
city which, like so many in France really seems
to enjoy mixing the old and the new whether
that’s in terms of art, architecture, gastronomy
or culture. A small city which clings to the
last of the mountains of the Massif Central
and dozes quietly 600 metres above sea
level. It was originally two cities and is ever so
slightly disjointed, with two city squares and a
heady combination of gothic and renaissance
architecture, hand in hand with the ultramodern
Musée Soulages. Read more about
Belcastel and Rodez.
The Good Life France | 47
UNESCO spotlight:
Avignon, Provence
Aerial view of Avignon ©ProductAir
48 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 49
For many, the first thing that springs to mind when thinking of Avignon in Provence is
the well-known French children’s song about dancing on a bridge in the city:
“sur le pont d’Avignon, l’on y danse, l’on y danse”. But did you know that the 12th
century bridge is UNESCO listed? And it’s not the only UNESCO-listed site in this
medieval city…
The UNESCO-listed sites of Avignon
Palais des Papes and the
Place du Palais
From 1309 to 1377 Avignon was the seat of
seven successive Catholic Popes beginning
with Clement V, a Frenchman. Unrest in
Rome and politics played a part in the
decision to move papal power to Provence.
Of course the Popes had to have somewhere
suitable to live. The monumental Palais des
Papes, the Popes’ Palace, was built between
1335 to 1352 and over the years there were
more modifications. Jean Froissart, a 14th
century chronicler and writer who visited
Avignon, described it as “the most beautiful
and strongest house in the world” and it
housed Europe’s largest library at the time. It
wasn’t cheap to build, costing 400,000 Livres
(the French currency at the time), six times
what Pope Clement VI spent when he bought
the city of Avignon from Johanna, Countess
of Provence, in 1348 – the city was only
reclaimed by France in 1793.
Set in the immense Place du Palais, the palace
is as big as five cathedrals with a whopping
15,000 m² of floor space (three times the size
of the White House in Washington DC). It is
the biggest Gothic palace in the world.
When the Papal court was moved back to
Rome, dissident cardinals in Avignon “elected”
50 | The Good Life France
two more Popes to reign in France, it split
the church for 39 years, but in the end Rome
was the victor. The Popes Palace in Avignon
became a residence for visiting dignitaries
and fell into disrepair. During the French
Revolution it became a prison and then
was turned into a barracks for Napoleon’s
soldiers. It wasn’t until the early 1900s that
the magnificence of the building was once
again recognised and it became a public
museum in 1906.
Twenty-five rooms in the palace are open
to visitors including the former Indulgence
Window where the Pope gave blessings to
the crowds below, the grand formal rooms
which held banquets and ceremonies,
the Treasury, the private chapels and
apartments with priceless frescoes.
Petit Palais
The palace is surrounded by other
monuments including the former residence
of Bishops, known as the Petit Palais. It’s not
actually that petit and covers an impressive
3000 m² with two inner courtyards. It was
rebuilt in the 15th century on the site of a
former palace built to house Archbishop
Julien de la Rovère who later became Pope
Jules II. It’s now a museum with an extensive
collection of artworks of the Middle Ages
and the Renaissance including works by
Botticelli and Carpaccio.
Notre-Dame des Doms
Cathedral
Next to the Palais des Papes is the
Cathedral of Notre Dame des Doms,
which was built in 1150 in the Provençal
Romanesque style and predates the Papal
complex. Gothic style chapels were added
between the 14th and 17th centuries. Atop
the cathedral’s bell tower, a 20-foot gilded
statue of the Virgin Mary presides over the
surroundings.
©F Olliver
© Empreintes Dailleur
The Good Life France | 51
Rocher des Doms Gardens
A short walk from the cathedral you’ll find
the Rocher des Doms park. From its peak you
have panoramic views of the Rhone river. It’s
a beautiful park, centred around a pond which
is home to swans and other waterfowl, and
offers a green refuge from the summer heat to
tourists and locals alike.
Clos de la Vigne
Within the Rocher des Doms park the Clos de
la Vigne is the only AOC intramural vineyard
in France on a UNESCO World Heritage site.
The small parcel of vines features 12 grape
varieties for red and white wines. Grapes
are harvested by hand, and in 2021 the first
bottles of matured wine were auctioned
for charity. The vineyard overlooks the river
Rhone and the famous Saint-Bénézet bridge,
the town’s emblem and yet another UNESCO
listed monument in Avignon…
© Sylvie Villeger
https://www.ophorus.com/
52 | The Good Life France
© Jill Converyr
Saint-Bénézet bridge – the
Pont d’Avignon
The building of the bridge of Avignon was
begun in 1175 after a 10 year-old shepherd
from the Ardèche named Bénézet (which
means ‘Little Benoit’) claimed to have been
told by God to build a bridge along the
waterfront in Avignon. Legend has it that, after
walking to Avignon, accompanied by an angel
disguised as a pilgrim, he was challenged by
the Bishop’s provost to carry an impossibly
large block of stone to the water’s edge. It
was so large, it was said that thirty strong men
couldn’t move it. The tale goes that aided
by angels bathed in golden light, he hoisted
the stone onto his shoulder and laid it as the
foundation stone for the Bridge. Overcome
by this miraculous feat, benefactors supplied
sufficient funds. It took ten years to complete
the bridge. Bénézet’s feat was declared a
miracle, though he died without seeing it
completed, he died in 1184. Pilgrims flocked
to see the bridge whose fame spread far and
wide, and the shepherd became the patron
saint of bridge builders.
Originally almost a kilometre long, the bridge
had 22 arches. It was built at a point of the
river where the force of water was so strong,
even Roman engineers were deterred from
building there. Today, only four arches remain,
the bridge having been poor maintained,
reconstructed several times and finally swept
away by floods, it collapsed in the 17th century
and it’s said that King Louis XIV was one of the
last people to walk across it.
On the bridge the little stone Chapel of Saint-
Bénézet where the saint was originally buried,
was rebuilt in 1414 after the “War of the
Catalonians”. The Saint’s remains are now in
the nearby 14th century Gothic church of Saint-
Didier, built during the time of the Popes in Avignon.
The ramparts of Avignon
The old city of Avignon is encircled by
ramparts. They are 4.3km long and were
The Good Life France | 53
https://yourprivateprovence.com/
https://yourprivatechauffeurprovence.com/private-chauffeur/
54 | The Good Life France
uilt to protect the city from the assaults
by gangs of marauding mercenaries. Work
began in 1355 during the Papacy of Pope
Innocent VI and were completed in 1370
under the reign of Pope Urban V. The
entrance of the Avignon Bridge provides
access onto the ramparts, and to the Rocher
des Doms Gardens. The views over the city
and the Rhône River are breath-taking.
“Very few medieval cities in Provence have
intact ramparts today because they were
sometimes demolished by kings to weaken
the power of the local community for
instance Louis XIV ordered the demolition of
Orange’s fortifications in 1660, which makes
Avignon’s ramparts all the more special. And
sometimes they were just taken by the locals
to use for building materials.” says Emily
Durand of Your Private Provence.
But don’t go thinking Avignon is a museum
town – it’s a vibrant city with lots of
beautiful squares where you can sit and
watch the world go by at superb bars
and restaurants. There are more than a
dozen museums and year-round festivals.
You’ll find fabulous markets (don’t miss
Les Halles), and it’s the perfect place to
wander with picturesque streets lined with
magnificent architectural gems.
Recommended tour:
Heritage sites and
lavender tour
Where to eat out in
Avignon as recommended
by the locals
Top things to do in Avignon
yourprivateprovence.com/escortedtravel-perks/provence-heritage-sites-tour
thegoodlifefrance.com/10-greatrestaurants-and-bars-in-avignonprovence/
thegoodlifefrance.com/top-ten-things-tosee-in-avignon/
Palais of the Papes when it was used as a barracks
Inside Palais des Papes
Palais des Papes
The Good Life France | 55
56 | The Good Life France
Lost Monuments
of Paris
Sue Aran explores the history of two of Paris’s lost palaces…
Paris is a city of contrasts – light and dark, old and new, past and present. Erased from the
memories of most Parisians, however, are two buildings: the Palais du Trocadéro and the Palais
Bardo. These ephemeral constructions of grandeur were richly imagined for the Paris World
Fairs Expositions Universelle. Paris hosted seven world fairs beginning in 1855 and ending in
1937. Visitors flocked from around the world and in 1900, Paris broke records with more than 50
million visitors and 83,000 exhibitors at that year’s Fair.
Palais du Trocadéro
The Palais du Trocadéro was built
for the Exposition Universelle of
1878 by architect Gabriel Davioud.
He was a colleague of Georges-
Eugène “Baron” Haussmann, the
urban planner who was responsible
for the spectacular renovation of
Paris during the reign of Napoléon
III in the mid-19th century. Davioud
designed most of the Parisian
street furniture we see today,
including the benches, lamp-posts,
signposts, fences, balustrades,
kiosks, pavilions, bandstands,
monuments and fountains, the
most recognizable of which is the landmark
fountain at Place Saint-Michel.
The Palais du Trocadéro was built on the hill
of Chaillot, across the Seine from the Eiffel
Tower in the 16th arrondissement. The Palais
was named in honour of the 1823 Battle
of Trocadéro in which the fortified Isla del
Trocadero in Spain was captured by French
forces under the leadership of the Duc
d’Angoulême, the son of Charles X. Davioud
conceived the elaborate palace as a pastiche
of Byzantine and Moorish architecture where
meetings of international organizations
could be held during the fair. There was a
large concert hall flanked by two 76-meter
(249-foot) towers. The hall contained a large
Palais de ChaillotPalais du Trocadero, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
organ built by Aristide Cavaillé-Coll, the first
large organ to be installed in a concert hall
in France. It is still in use at the Auditorium
Maurice Ravel in Lyon. The building proved
unpopular, but the cost expended in its
construction delayed its replacement for
nearly 50 years, and the central building was
finally demolished in 1937.
It was replaced by the Palais de Chaillot
for the International Exhibition of Arts and
Techniques held in 1937. The wings of the
Palais du Trocadéro were reused for the
Chaillot building. It’s now home to four cultural
institutions: the City of Architecture and
Heritage, the National Maritime Museum, the
The Good Life France | 57
Musée de l'Homme and Chaillot – National
Dance Theater. Often left out of tourist
itineraries, the Palais de Chaillot is worth
visiting for the magnificent architecture as well
as the extraordinary museums. Plus there is a
wonderful view over the Eiffel Tower and the
Champs du de Mars from the Esplanade des
Libertés et des Droits de l'Homme, between
the two wings. And there are several places
to eat including the Café de l'Homme, at the
back of the back of the Musée de l'Homme,
one of the favourite spots for Parisians in
summer with a terrace overlooking the tower
opened in 2020.
The space between the palais and the Seine
is set with gardens, designed by Jean-Charles
Alphand, and an array of fountains. Within
its gardens, two large animal statues stood
– a rhinoceros and an elephant, which were
removed and stored during the demolition of
the old palace, and have been located next to
the entrance of the Musée d’Orsay since 1986.
Saint-Michel Fountain
https://frenchcountryadventures.com/
58 | The Good Life France
Clockwise: Palais du Bardo, vintage postcard, Public Domain
Head of the Statue of Liberty on display in Paris at the World Fair 1878 Source
Album de la Statue de la Liberté, Public Domain
Aerial view of the Exposition Universelle of 1878, public domain
The head of the Statue of Liberty was also
showcased in the garden until it was packed
in one of 214 wooden crates for shipment to
the United States. The Statue of Liberty was
designed by French sculptor Frederic Auguste
Bartholdi and built by Gustave Eiffel. It was
given by the people of France to the United
States and dedicated in situ in 1886. There are
more than 100 replicas of the iconic statue
including more than 30 in France!
Palais du Bardo
The Palais du Bardo, built for the Exposition
Universelle of 1867 in the 14th arrondissement
at Parc Montsouris, was designed by the
French architect, Alfred Chapon. The original
Bardo Palace was the 13th-century royal
residence of the Hafsid family, located in
the suburbs of Tunis. It was one of the most
important museums of the Mediterranean
basin, tracing the history of Tunisia over
several millennia. Chapon carefully recreated
a reduced-scale replica of the Bardo Palace
in Tunisia in pure Moorish style. Six statues of
lions flanked the staircase of honor that led to
a brilliantly green-tiled, colonnaded courtyard
evoking A Thousand and One Nights. The Bey
of Tunis rested here during his visits to the expo
in a private bed chamber with an adjoining
harem room.
After the expo, the City of Paris bought
the Palais and commissioned a redesign
by Gabriel Davioud. It accommodated
housing for the staff of the astronomical
and meteorological Observatoire de Paris,
installed on its premises in 1876. In 1974 the
building had deteriorated to such an extent
that its occupants were evacuated. A fire
destroyed it completely in 1991.
Most buildings of the Expositions Universelle
were meant to be temporary and only a few
vestiges remain, most famously the Eiffel Tower
(1889), the Grand Palais, the Petit Palais and
the Alexandre III Bridge (1900), the Palais de la
Porte Dorée (1931) and the Palais de Chaillot
and Palais de Tokyo (1937). But you’ll find
drawings, paintings and maps of all the buildings
created at the Musée Carnavalet museum.
Sue Aran lives in the Gers department of
southwest France where she runs French Country
Adventures which provides private, personallyguided,
small-group food & wine adventures into
Gascony, the Pays Basque, Tarn and beyond…
The Good Life France | 59
60 | The Good Life France Evian Funicular: © P.Leroy.Semaphor
Spotlight on: EVIAN
MAP
The spa town of Evian-les-Bains on the shores of Lake Geneva, in Haute-Savoie has played
host to a glittering list of guests spanning royalty, celebrities and notables over the course
of two centuries. In fact, it was so popular that even Frankenstein holidayed here…
Left: © Evian Ville Top right: Palais Lumiere © Evian Ville Middle right: Lausanne © Hotel R Evian Resort Bottom: Wine slopes Lausanne © Hotel R Evian Resort
The Good Life France | 61
The history of Evian
The curative virtues of the water in Evian were
first discovered in the late eighteenth century
by a French aristocrat. The Marquis de Lessert,
whilst out walking in the town in 1789, took a
drink from a natural spring. He was much taken
with it pronouncing it to be ‘easy to drink’. It
started a trend and an enterprising local started
to sell bottles of it. People were wowed by the
water’s qualities. If it was good enough to drink,
it was certainly good enough to bathe in. The
first “Hydropathetic Establishment” (thermal
spa) opened in 1826. Hotels, restaurants, and a
casino followed, keen to cash in on the visitors
who flocked to the town.
What to see in Evian
From the hotel it’s a downhill stroll and
twenty minute uphill cardio-vascularly
challenging hike back to the town of Evianles
Bains. It’s a surprisingly culturally rich town
with a medieval hospital and a thirteenth
century church. The Belle Epoque stye is
obvious with a lake front 1878-built casino
and a theatre with a neo-classical façade
which was built in 1885, the 1900-built Palais
Lumiere, and the 1826-built Cachat Pump
Room (which is being restored). The funicular
railway was completed in 1907. At the Cachat
Source, Sainte Catherine’s Fountain, built in
1903, the locals fill up their bottles with free,
magnesium-rich, sand-bank filtered water.
A French count fleeing from the French
Revolution, suffering from gallstones was said
to be cured by drinking the water from this
source daily. It flows year round at a constant
temperature of 11.6°C.
Tranquil.
Sans gaz.
62 | The Good Life France
Lac Leman
Lac Leman (Lake Geneva in English) is the
largest lake in western Europe. It gets its name
from either the Greek for ‘lake’s port’ or the
Celtic word ‘limos’, referring to the local fertile
mud. It’s just a 30-minute ferry crossing from
Evian to Lausanne from where you can easily
visit the Swiss Riviera and the steep-sided
UNESCO-listed Lavaux vineyards on the
shores of the lake. If you do, stop for a tasting
of the local Chasselas wines. The Domaine
Bovard in Cully is one of the best, their Buxus
Sauvignon Blanc is superb. In the 12 th century,
Cistercian monks created miles of walls and
terraces using French stones across the lake to
support the terraces. So, there are, arguably,
two French sides of Lake Geneva. The monks
also planted the original vine rootstock.
Lunch at Tout un Monde Restaurant in Lavaux
and you’ll enjoy a view down most of the 104
mile perimeter, croissant-shaped, 25-mile long
Evian Resort golf course © Hotel R Evian Resort
by 11-mile wide lake which is fed by forty-two
rivers. From the terrace you see Evian, the
Bernese Alps, Mont Pelerin, the Savoie and
Valais mountains, Montreux and Vevey. While
digesting your char, féra, perch fillets and lake
shrimps you can watch the yachts and swanky
boats as you relish the fabulous view.
Frankenstein connection
Everyone sleeps well at the Hotel Royal.
All except Mrs Frankenstein. She and her
husband honeymooned there, before she was
strangled. In Mary Shelley’s dark tale, Victor
Frankenstein, the creator of the monster,
agrees to create a mate for him. Destroying it
before completion, the monster vows ‘I will be
with you on your wedding night.’ On the day
Victor married Elisabeth, the monster breaks
into the bridal suite at the Hotel Royal and
strangles the new bride.
The Good Life France | 63
https://www.tv5mondeplus.com/?xtor=CS5-70-%5BEUR_Trafic%5D-%5Bthegoodlife_
france%5D-%5B300x250%5D-
https://www.aveyron.tours/
64 | The Good Life France
The 467-acre 150 room hotel opened in 1909
in honour of King Edward VII who died before
he could schmooze there and blag some luxury.
The hotel was allowed to keep its royal status.
The Jean-Albert Hebrard-designed “white
steam ship anchored in the hills” sits above Lac
Leman. One of the first spa palace hotels, the
hotel has always been a magnet for the rich
and famous. The spa’s relaxation lounge is the
Aga Khan III’s old apartment. They still have
the original chandelier in storage. The Royal
was the holiday choice for sultans, maharajahs,
shahs, and other royalty as well as celebrities
and statesmen. Just 45 minutes from Les
Portes du Soleil, Europe’s largest ski area, it
hosted the 2003 G8 summit.
Frankenstein’s monster would never have
made a spa therapist. But he could have been
mistaken for a customer. Or health tourist.
He had the gait of one. Frankenstein walked
like he had a metabolic disorder or a urinary
ailment. Or maybe he was just getting used to
the very scanty, hardly-there and rather tight
briefs the spa staff make you wear.
By Kevin Pllley and Janine Marsh
Website: Evian Tourist Office
tourism.evian-tourisme.com
Top: © Evian Ville
Bottom: Lake © P.Leroy.Semaphor
The Good Life France | 65
Vercors:
Active by
Nature
66 | The Good Life France
AMY McPHERSON
finds beauty and adventure in unspoiled territory
Before I went, I had no idea where Vercors
was, but I did know it was famous for its
outdoor activities. A two hour car journey
from Lyon Airport brought me to a small
range of pre-Alps mountains that straddles
the departments of Isère and Drome in southeastern
France. As we turned off the dusty
highway into the valley, I was greeted by a
heavenly view. The hills were a crisp lime
green and the sky a brilliant blue. Vercors
makes a great first impression.
I came here seeking an adventure. Vercors, a
utopia for outdoors enthusiast, was ready to
indulge me.
Hiking in Hauts Plateaux
Nature Reserve
One of the great things about hiking is that all
you need is a good solid pair of shoes. It is so
easy to simply walk into nature and feel miles
away from civilisation. Being a mountainous
region, Vercors has plenty of hiking options
on offer.
In the Hauts Plateaux Nature Reserve, the
largest land-based metropolitan reserve in
France, there are no roads or houses, apart
from refuge huts providing shelter for hikers.
The 17,000 hectares of wild land with its
forests of oaks, beeches, firs, spruce, pines
is home to much wildlife including marmots,
black grouse, Alpine ibex, vultures and
golden eagles.
Paths that crisscross the reserve are rocky with
limestone which has been sculpted by water
and weather, covered with pine needles and
tree roots, lined with mountain flora. The moist
undergrowth of the forest is full of ferns, fungi
and fabulous fauna. I spotted Lady’s Slipper
orchids, Edelweiss, Gentians, as well as the
rare scabiosa columbaria ‘Vercors’ in various
shades of purple. Other than the crunch of
my footsteps, the only other sounds were the
whistle of the wind and the rustle of leaves. So
quiet, not even the birds stirred. The air was
fresh, the surrounding nature energising, and
the sound of silence meditating.
Gentle cycling along
ViaVercors
No respectable ‘outdoor destination’ would
be without the offer of some great cycling.
The Good Life France | 67
Grotte de Choranche in the heart of Vercors, is full of mysterious beauty
Here in Vercors, while the lycra-wearers rule the
spectacular balcony roads that are dramatically
carved onto the rock face with breath-taking
views of gorges beyond, cliffs above and alpine
meadows below, there is an alternative leisure
option to exploring on two wheels.
‘Don’t worry’ guide Olivier from Velectrip,
which specialises in nature sports, assured
a group of us keen to explore the area. ‘We
don’t have to wear lycra!’
ViaVercors is a network of designated cycling
routes that cuts through the valley floors
connecting all the main towns in Vercors. The
mostly flat routes took us from farmland to
villages, along running streams and quiet
back roads.
A bike tour is a great way to explore the
many villages of Vercors and visit the local
craftspeople and farmers. Other than forest
and nature, Vercors is also well known for
its agriculture. We stopped at the Ferme du
Pic Saint Michel, where Marion and Yannick
Rochas have 60 chamois alpine breed goats.
After much petting and cooing the goats who
seemed more than happy at the attention, we
sampled goats cheese of different stages of
maturity direct from the farmer’s hands.
‘Many people say they don’t like goats cheese,’
Olivier said as he stuffed a cube of the one
week old cheese into his mouth. ‘That’s because
they’ve never really tried it directly from the farm.
‘You cannot get this from the supermarkets.’
Of course, a day on the bike also means guiltfree
sampling of great regional cuisine from
many of the cafés and restaurants conveniently
en route. They’re all listed in the ViaVercors
map which you can get from the tourist office,
or you can book a guided tour.
The best part? I was pedalling an e-bike,
which are readily available for hire at local
bike shops. It meant the ride was relaxing and
I could take it easy and enjoy the views.
Trying out the sport of
biathlon
Biathlon is a sport that requires the agility of
a cross country skier and the sharp aim of a
sniper. It was never on my radar as a holiday
activity. Yet, when you find yourself among
champions as I did unexpectedly it seemed a
shame not to give it a go.
68 | The Good Life France
‘Actually, many of the French Nordic sport
champions comes from Vercors’ said Loïs
Habert. He and his wife Marie Dorin, both
ex-national biathletes, and cross-country
skier Robin Duvillard manage ZeCamp
Hotel in Corrençon-en-Vercors, which offers
a selection of sports and wellness holiday
activity options. It is the perfect place to try
biathlon.
‘Shooting a rifle is all about the breathing,’
Loïs said just before he pulled the trigger and
downed one of the targets. I tried to replicate,
concentrating with all my energy and
managing to hit three out of five targets.
For the ski part of the biathlon, it being
summer we ‘ski’d’ on roller skis. It’s not that
easy, and not like roller skating, and though I’d
seen school groups make it look easy as they
rolled up and down the streets of Villard-de-
Lans, the town where I was based, I retreated
to the hotel for a session of yoga.
On top of the world in
Vercors
All around Vercors, the sight of silvery
mountain peaks like limestone fingers reaching
to the sky is never far away. If you want to get
closer to them then a spot of rock climbing is
a popular pastime here. I couldn’t resist and
joined mountain guide Jehan-Roland Guillot.
As he strapped ropes and hooks onto each of
us in our intrepid group of climbers he assured
us we would be on top of the world soon. I
pulled on a helmet and looked up. The sun was
streaking through the vertical silhouette of the
so-called Three Maidens – Les Trois Pucelles,
a set of limestone formation above the valley
of Grenoble 1456 meters above sea level. It
looked daunting. It looked impossible.
‘Don’t worry, winked Jean-Roland ‘I’m good
with beginners!’
Two hours later, we had hiked past the 90-metre
springboard used during the 1968 Winter
Olympic Games at Grenoble, picked our way
through patches of coniferous trees, abseiled
down a rock wall like James Bond, climbed the
jagged edges of the cliffs to the top, and finally
reached the gap between the rocks. A rope,
stretched tight between the peaks of the rocks,
was our way across. Tentatively I hooked my
clips onto the rope, inched towards the edge. It
was a steep drop to the ground, I gulped.
‘Trust the rope, trust yourself, there is nothing to
be afraid of. Just let go’ encouraged Jehan.
In my line of sight, the city of Grenoble spread
before like walnut butter, covering the basin
and towards the edges of the mountains. It was
a beautifully clear day and the peak of Mount
Blanc was just visible in the distance. Adrenaline
kicked in. It felt like I was at the top of the world.
I breathed it all in and let go.
For nature, beauty, adventure and sheer joie
de vivre – Vercors is hard to beat.
For more information:
inspiration-vercors.com
isere-tourisme.com
The Good Life France | 69
Yvoire
Church of Saint Pancrace
70 | The Good Life France
, Haute-Savoie
Yvoire, in Haute-Savoie, Auvergne-Rhône-
Alpes region, was founded in 1306 when
Amédée V, Count of Savoy began fortifying
the former fishing village. It’s officially one
of the most beautiful villages in France (Plus
Beaux Villages de France). Sitting of the
shores of the grand Lake Geneva, known
as Lac Leman in French, it’s nicknamed the
“pearl of Lake Geneva.” The colourful
streets are beautifully floral with geraniums
and wisteria have won it numerous and
prestigious distinctions and the Garden of
the Five Senses featuring 1500 varieties
of plants makes for a sensory walk
accompanied by bird song and the sound of
a tinkling stream.
The Good Life France | 71
72 | The Good Life France
14th century Chateau d’Yvoire
Artists have long flocked to the village and
photographer Jerome Palacios from Mougins
in the south of France loves to capture it’s
medieval beauty. His partner Manuella
Houssais says“ Yvoire is full of history with
its 14th century castle, ramparts, fortified
gates and beautiful medieval houses. Strolling
through the streets, discovering the labyrinth
of the Jardin des Cinq Sens which offers
a green escape in the heart of the village,
browsing the quaint shops and sampling the
delicious restaurants are some of the many
pleasures to be found here…”
In the heart of the village, be sure to visit the
Jardin des Cinq Sens. Classified as a Remarkable
Garden by the Ministry of Culture, this little
paradise of greenery invites you to a poetic
discovery of plants thanks to your 5 senses.
See more of France on Jerome’s Instagram
Instagram.com/jeromepalcios
Photographs © Jerome Palacios
The Good Life France | 73
10
fabulous
things to do
in Provence
In an area famous for so many things, like beautiful lavender fields, charming hilltop
villages, and delicious food, it’s hard to pick favourites. We asked local author Keith van
Sickle for his top ten Provence things to do…
Les Carrières des Lumières, Baux-de-Provence
Magic in a Mountain
Imagine this: you enter a giant cavern with
sheer, 30-foot-high walls. Huge images start
to appear on one wall, then another, then on
the floor. You realize that they are paintings by
a great artist like van Gogh or Cézanne. The
images pulse and swirl, full of life and color,
their movements choreographed to beautiful
music. This is the Carrières de Lumières, the
world’s most magical sound and light show,
and a different artist is featured each year. It’s
so popular that copies are popping up all over
the world, but none matches the original. You
really do have to see it to believe it!
Picnic in the Sky
The Cedar Forest sits far above the Luberon
Valley, higher even than the nearby hilltop
village of Bonnieux. As you take the winding
road up to the forest, there’s a secret spot off
to the side
where you
can picnic
under a tree
and enjoy an
unparalleled
view across
the valley.
74 | The Good Life France
Les Calanques, Peter Jones
Cassis, Nick Meersman
France’s Fjords
East of Marseille, tall cliffs plunge down to the sea, with craggy inlets here and there. These
calanques are like mini fjords, the grey stone contrasting with the deep blue waters of the
Mediterranean where you see sailboats anchored, their passengers sunning on tiny beaches.
If you’re feeling energetic you can hike to the calanques, but I recommend taking one of the
regular boat rides that depart from the pretty little port town of Cassis, then you can see the
calanques in two hours or less. Be sure to try some seafood at one of the restaurants along
Cassis’s waterfront.
Walk Through
a Rainbow
A century ago, ochre was
mined in Roussillon and
used as pigment in paint.
The ochre quarries are
abandoned now but there’s
a well-marked walking trail
through them. Follow it
and admire the brilliantlycoloured
hillsides—you’ll
see red, purple, orange,
and yellow. The town of
Roussillon is a nice place to
enjoy lunch or coffee, and
all the buildings are painted
in various ochre shades.
Nearby and less crowded is
the Colorado Provençal, with
its own abandoned ochre
quarries that are more rustic
than Roussillon’s but equally
beautiful.
Roussillon
The Good Life France | 75
Les Baux-de-Provence
Bike to Hell and Back
The Alpilles Mountains are full of biking
routes with fabulous views, that range from
easy to moderately difficult. Our favourite
ride is to puff our way from St-Rémy up to
the Val d’Enfer (Hell Valley.) It’s full of rugged
boulders and rocky outcroppings and there’s
a spot where you can look straight across
to the mountaintop fortress of Les Bauxde-Provence.
The best part of the ride is
coasting back!
Hike to the Top of
the World
La Caume is one of the highest points of the
Alpilles Mountains and is surprisingly easy
to reach on foot. Rather than starting at the
bottom, you can drive to a big parking lot
that’s part of the way up and join the trail
there. It’s paved and well-marked and not
too steep, and the view from La Caume is
terrific—to the north you can see the Rhône
Valley and to the south the view goes all the
way to the Mediterranean Sea.
The Outdoor Markets
One of the glories of Provence is its outdoor
markets, full of wonderful sights, smells, and
tastes. You can sample cheeses, drool over
roast chickens, and chat with the olive vendor,
find perfect souvenirs, then relax in a café.
You can’t visit Provence without going to its
markets – every town and village has its own.
My favorite, of course, is St-Rémy’s.
market Provence
76 | The Good Life France
Pont du Gard
The Stunning Roman Aqueduct
The Pont du Gard was built over 2,000 years ago, to bring water to the city of Nîmes. It is so
big that Roman engineers had to build it on three levels, each with its own set of arches. The
aqueduct crosses over the Gard River and is as tall as the top of the Statue of Liberty’s torch!
For extra fun you can rent a kayak and float under it.
Birth of a River
Imagine that you
are walking on a
path next to a river,
going upstream.
You look up and
see that you are
coming to a high
cliff. You wonder
how the river gets
past it – maybe it
goes around? Then
you get to the cliff
Fontaine de Vaucluse
and you realize the
river is coming out of the ground, just bursting
forth. You’re at Fontaine-de-Vaucluse, one of
the largest springs in the world, and so deep
that even Jacques Cousteau couldn’t reach
the bottom.
A River of Sheep
Every year, thousands of sheep march
through the streets of St-Rémy,
accompanied by musicians, shepherds,
sheepdogs, and the occasional goat. It’s
like a river of sheep flowing through town!
Afterwards there are sheepdog trials. This is
a fun event for the whole family. It’s all part
of the annual transhumance festival that
commemorates the days when sheep used
to walk to higher pastures to escape the
summer heat.
Keith and Val Van Sickle live part of the year in
St-Rémy-de-Provence and have traveled widely
throughout the region. Keith is the author of An
Insider’s Guide to Provence (read our review).
The Good Life France | 77
What’s
New?
Roundup of openings and major events
In 2021:
Paris saw the opening of the historic Hôtel
de la Marine, the spectacular Bourse de
Commerce | Collection Pinault and the rebirth
of La Samaritaine Department Store.
A brand new modern art museum housed in
the former stables of the 12th century Royal
Abbey of Fontevraud in the Loire was opened.
It showcases the private collection (some
900 objects from paintings to sculptures and
antiques) of Martine and Léon Cligman.
In the south of France, the long awaited Frank
Gehry tower, the crown jewel of the LUMA
Foundation in Arles was completed. And in
Narbonne, the Musée Narbo Via designed
by Norman Foster, who also designed the
world famous Millau Viaduct, opened in May.
Featuring a wall of 760 antique stones, the
museum brings together over 1,000 antiquities
aimed to show the Narbonne’s Roman past
when it was known as Narbo Martius.
78 | The Good Life France
© Bassin de Lumieres, Bordeaux -5
In 2022:
February 2022 – January 2023:
In Bordeaux, the Bassins de Lumières,
the largest digital art centre in the world,
house in 4 huge basins of the former WWII
submarine base will feature “Venice and its
Masters,” and another show dedicated to
Spanish painter Sorolla.
bassins-lumieres.com
Plage Dieppe Plage Dieppe © B. Collier
12 March – 19 August: 2022 marks the
80th anniversary of the Raid, and with it
the occasion to pay tribute to the Canadian
soldiers who fought there, many of whom
gave their lives fighting for freedom. The
ceremonies, commemorations and festivities
will take on an international dimension and will
feature parades, festivals, military displays,
exhibitions and fireworks throughout the year.
junobeach.org
The Good Life France | 79
23 April – 1 May: International Kite Festival, Berck, Pas-de-Calais. cerf-volant-berck.com
6 April – 25 July: The Louvre Lens, the first regional annex of the Louvre Museum in Paris,
will mark its 10th anniversary with two major exhibits: Rome from April 6 to July 25, 2022,
and Hieroglyphics from September 28, 2022 to January 16, 2023. Lens, which is in Northern
France, is easily accessible from Paris in a little over 1 hour by high-speed train.
louvrelens.fr
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80 | The Good Life France
Cite Internationale de la Gastronomie et du Vin ©AAABAgence d'Architecture Anthony Béchu
6 May: Burgundy’s beautiful capital city,
Dijon, will open the Cite Internationale de
la Gastronomie et du Vin on the site of the
former historic Hotel-Dieu breathing new
life into 15th and 18th century buildings and
creating new spaces. The new landmark
destination, a ten-year project, The
International City of Gastronomy & Wine is
at the starting point of the region’s famous
Wine Route which runs from Dijon to Macon
via Beaune. Among the highlights will be a
gastronomy and wine cultural and training
centre, new shops and restaurants, cookery
classes and wine tasting sessions, a fourstar
hotel and a 13-screen cinema complex.
citedelagastronomie-dijon.fr
https://www.rhonewineholidays.com/
The Good Life France | 81
26 May – 16 October: Amiens Hortillonnages Arts and Gardens Festival takes place on a
network of medieval waterways and islands in the shadow of the city’s great Gothic Cathedral.
artetjardins-hdf.com
Grotte Cosquer replica at La Villa Méditerranée ©Kléber Rossillon
Penguin painting replica Grotte Cosquer
June: Marseille sees a major new
opening of a replica of the remarkable
underwater prehistoric cave known as
the Grotte Cosquer. Hosted at La Villa
Méditerranée, an ultra-contemporary
building on the old harbour, it will provide
an immersive and interactive experience
as you discover the original cave’s 500
cave paintings depicting marine animals
like penguins plus seals and what seems
to be jellyfish, and mammals that
roamed in that era. The original cave
was lived in as early as 33,000 years
ago, the actual cave is located in the
mini-fjords between Cassis and Marseille
known as the Calanques, specifically in
Triperie Calanque, near Cape Morgiou.
grotte-cosquer.com
82 | The Good Life France
30 June-3 July: Le Mans Classic returns
after a four-year absence. Expect 600 racing
cars on the track in this classic day and night
race. Plus 8,500 classic cars displayed in the
specially designed enclosures.
lemansclassic.com
1-24 July: Tour de France starting in
Copenhagen, Denmark and finishing in the
Champs-Elysees Paris.
letour.fr
24-31 July: The Woman’s Tour de France
returns after an absence of more than 30
years. Start on the day of the final stage 21 of
the Men’s Tour. 1028km eight-day race will
take in back to back mountain stages as well
as gravel sectors, flat stages and more. Starting
at the Eiffel Tower and ending atop La Planche
des Belles Filles in the Vosges mountains.
letourfemmes.fr
Spring: Fans of Serge Gainsbourg will rejoice
to know that France’s first cultural institution
dedicated to the songwriter Serge Gainsbourg
will open Mason Gainsbourg including a
museum, bookstore and Le Gainsbarre, a
hybrid space that hosts a café during the day
and a piano bar by night.
maisongainsbourg.fr
The ‘Seine à Vélo’ cycle route, launched in
2021, which follows the River Seine from Paris
to Le Havre and Deauville in Normandy, has
been named as one of the best places to
explore in 2022 by National Geographic! The
270-mile Paris-to-the-sea path passes through
some of the region’s most beautiful and famous
sites, including Giverny – home to Claude
Monet’s house and garden, Château-Gaillard
at Les Andelys, Jumièges and picture-perfect
Honfleur. It also goes through Rouen which was
awarded UNESCO gastronomic status in 2021!
laseineavelo.com
Carriage of Le Grand Tour train
In 2023:
Puy du Fou, the award winning, world’s
most incredible theme park, launches the
world’s longest show on ‘Le Grand Tour’, a
6-day spectacular Grand Tour of France on
France’s first private rail company. The train
takes a 4000km journey across France on
an authentic and luxurious Belle Epoque
train taking in some of the greatest sights
including Champagne and Burgundy, Avignon
in Provence, the castles of the Loire Valley,
wonderful Lake Annecy and the Arcachon
Basin. Find out more: legrandtour.com
All information contained here is correct at
the time of publication, but we recommend
you check with the individual venues for
the latest updates, as dates may remain
subject to change and events may need to
be cancelled or postponed in line with the
health situation in France.
The Good Life France | 83
Luxury cruises, CroisiEurope © Gregory Gerault.
Tours de France
We’ve got one thing on our mind – taking a tour or a holiday in fabulous France.
Wandering cobbled streets, cruising on the Mediterranean or
French rivers, discovering gorgeous little villages and historic towns and cities,
visiting memorial sites, indulging in the gastronomic delights or
learning to cook with a chef, visiting the markets, staying in a castle or
a luxury farmhouse in the most beautiful location…
Check out our favourite tours and stays for 2022…
84 | The Good Life France
delivering truly unforgettable immersive
historical travel experiences. Every tour is
bespoke and tailored to your needs.
Sophiesgreatwartours.com
Tours for those who love the authentic
Discover the real southern France – from
captivating Carcassonne to magical
Montpellier, or the best of Provence and the
lavender fields, Normandy, Bordeaux and
Dordogne. On these luxury, small group tours
you’ll get to be a temporary local and indulge in
the best gastronomy, discover the beauty and
culture of France... tripusafrance.com
The best cruises of France
CroisiEurope is the number one cruise
company in Europe though they also operate
worldwide. In France they offer superb river,
canal, Mediterranean, regional and themed
cruises. As you’d expect from a French
company, their food and wine is the best –
and it’s inclusive, so once you’re on board,
all you have to do is relax, be pampered, and
enjoy the breath-taking scenery and fabulous
excursions. croisieurope.co.uk
Outstanding Rhône Valley Wine Tours
The Rhône Valley is the ultimate wine lovers
destination. And there’s no better way to
discover this beautiful area of Provence and
its vineyards than with a three day tour with
a local expert guide. This is a unique chance
to experience the real Provence. You’ll meet
local wine makers, visit the grand domaines
and famous estates. And of course, to taste
the very best wines and cuisine to match.
rhonewineholidays.com
Battlefield tours and memorial tourism
Sophie’s Great War Tours is a family-run
specialist tour operator, creating exceptional
WW1 & WW2 battlefield tours across France,
Belgium and the Netherlands. Their guides
are experts in history and hospitality,
Les Braves Monument, Omaha Beach
The Good Life France | 85
Foodie tour of Dordogne
Fabulous Food Tours of Dordogne
Unique and utterly scrumptious gastronomic day tours of Dordogne. You’ll be transported by
2CV through the glorious Dordogne landscape to visit the most amazing foodie destinations
and taste local specialities including truffles, caviar and wine. Visit castles, breath-takingly
pretty villages, vineyards, churches, manors and mills. perigourmet.com
Year round themed and bespoke small
group tours of Provence
Small group tours and customized travelling
to give you memories to last a lifetime.
Discover the best of Provence: Lavender tours,
truffle, grape harvest, and bespoke tours as
well as chauffeur services for day trips or a
lot longer. Emily Durand’s Private Provence
tours are unique, exclusive and truly fabulous.
yourprivateprovence.com
Gascony, the Basque country, Provence
and southern France
Nourish your soul and unleash your spirit of
adventure in Gascony. You’ll experience the
famous food, wine and Armagnac of the
region and discover where to find the best
antique shops and flea markets, the most
beautiful villages and magnificent chateaux.
Lavender fields, Provence
86 | The Good Life France
Vineyard in the Rhône Valley Villefranche-sur-Mer Gascony countryside
From one day to week long tours that are
customised for you. There are also tours of
Provence, southern France and the Basque
country. frenchcountryadventures.com
Day trips and tour packages all over
France, plus brilliant shore excursions
Ophorus Tours are a French family run
business with huge experience of running
small group tours all over France as well as
shore excursions. There is a huge choice
of tours from fun and informative guided
walking city tours to very carefully crafted
multi regional packages, wine tasting, cycling
and more. Their aim is to show you France as
they believe it should be shown – authentic,
colourful and friendly. www.ophorus.com
Spring and autumn small group tours
of Provence
Custom tours of Provence for small groups.
Jackdaw Journeys tours are designed for
those who wish to immerse themselves in
the culture of Provence. Cooking classes,
markets, antiquing, gastronomy and wine – it’s
all about discovering authentic Provence and
the French Riviera. You’ll make memories to
cherish forever. jackdawjourneys.com
Stunning B&B near Bergerac,
Chateau Masburel
With honey-toned stone walls and sage-
green shutters, the 18th Chateau de
Masburel wine domaine and B&B, has a
timeless, unhurried feel to it. It’s a working
winery producing award winning wines. Close
to Bergerac, Saint-Emilion and ten minutes
from the bastide town of Sainte-Foy-la-
Grande on the banks of the River Dordogne
in the Gironde. it’s the perfect base to
explore the area and enjoy a relaxing break.
Chateau-masburel.com
Culture & cookery tours in Provence
Cooking classes with chefs in their homes
where you’ll cook “authentic French dishes,
no frou frou” says host Martine Bertin-
Peterson. You’ll shop at the enchanting
street markets with chefs and dine at the
most scrumptious restaurants in beautiful
towns of Provence on this fully escorted
delicious and cultural trip of a lifetime.
goutetvoyage.com
Cognac no. 22 – luxury farmhouse in
Charente-Maritime
A 19th century traditional farmhouse with
a luxurious pool is in a tranquil village
surrounded by vineyards and fields of summer
sunflowers. Close to the Charente River and
the market towns of Rouillac and Matha, this
gorgeous holiday rental is ideally situated for
trips to the historic towns of Cognac, St Jean
d ‘Angely, Saintes and Angoulême and the
Atlantic Coast beaches. Cognac-no22.com
The Good Life France | 87
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88 | The Good Life France
Cruising the Rhône
France is criss-crossed by a network of 100 canals and rivers totalling thousands of miles.
David Jefferson’s book Through the French Canals features the main waterways of France
and in this extract, he explores the mighty river Rhône, the second longest in France and the
Saône river…
The Rhône
The Rhône is fed by several navigable
canalised rivers including, to the north of
Lyon, the Saône with the Petite Saône and
the southern arm of the Canal du Rhône
au Rhin and, just a few kilometres from the
Mediterranean, the Petite Rhône and the
Rhône à Séte Canal. This will be of interest to
anyone considering moving their boat down to
the Mediterranean by the waterways because
ultimately the choice is limited to navigating
the Rhône or a seaward passage down the
Bay of Biscay and taking the Canal des Deux
Mers. The Rhône is the more popular choice.
Particularly for smaller craft, the Rhône
comes as something of a challenge after days
spent progressing at a leisurely walking pace
along the Bourgogne or Bourbonnais routes,
stopping for lunch and mooring up in the early
evening near a promising restaurant. In the
space of a few days, the skipper is suddenly
having to cope with a strong current and pay
some attention to the weather as the boat
is piloted down the broad waters of the fastmoving
Rhône, sweeping her towards the giant
locks that are a feature of the waterway. The
rivers that feed into the Rhône are peaceful
enough during the summer months. There is
little current to cope with on the Saône, which
is particularly popular with those who choose
to charter boats on the French waterways.
Those who are bringing their boats through
The Good Life France | 89
Sète
France to the Mediterranean
from the Strasbourg region
or from Germany may
well be motoring along the
southern arm of the Canal
du Rhône au Rhin and
experiencing mile after mile
of spectacular scenery along
the Doubs valley.
At the Mediterranean end
of the Rhône, the skipper
has the choice of either
continuing almost to the end
and branching off at Port-
St-Louis or joining the Petit
Rhône which enables a boat
to transfer to the Rhône
à Séte Canal and motor
through the Camargue
to reach a more westerly
Mediterranean port.
Saône: St-Jean-de-Losne
to Lyon
Yachts bound for the Mediterranean by way of
the northern waterways will eventually reach
the important junction at
St-Jean-de-Losne. On the
way there, some will have
sampled the considerable
attractions of the Canal de
Bourgogne, others will have
chosen the Marne route
through the Champagne
region. Boats passagemaking
from Strasbourg
and the north-east will have
emerged from the Canal du
Rhône au Rhin and others
may have experienced
the delights of the Petite
Saône. Only those who have
taken the most westerly
Bourbonnais route will miss
St-Jean-de-Losne, meeting
the Saône 57km downriver
at Chalon-sur-Saône.
Having arrived at St-Jean-de-Losne, via the
various routes from the north, west or east,
crews should anticipate a marked contrast in
their surroundings once through the first of the
Saône’s massive locks (Seurre). The channel
widens from a modest 12–15m in the Petite
Saône to a minimum of 40m and at times the
90 | The Good Life France
© David Jefferson
river is 200m across from one bank to the
other. There are numerous shoals, shallows
and manmade submerged training walls to be
avoided, with red and green channel buoys
much in evidence.
Watch out for the dérivations on the Saône.
These are canal sections bypassing parts
of the river that are no longer navigable.
Sometimes a portion of what is being
bypassed can be navigated and provides
a peaceful night’s stop free from the wash
of passing barges. There is still commercial
traffic on the Saône, with pushing tugs
connected to several dumb
barges creating considerable
wash as they speed by at
15kn. When considering the
day’s passage, the crew will
appreciate an itinerary that
makes provision for a quiet
berth for the night, undisturbed
by the wash of passing traffic.
During the season, there is
little current unless, due to
exceptional weather conditions,
the water level is markedly
heightened with local flooding.
If navigating the river early or
late in the year, and you are
concerned about the height/
current, contact direction
interrégionale Rhône-Saône.
Between St-Jean-de-Losne and Lyon, much of
the countryside is rich meadowland dotted with
farmhouses with their distinctive red tiled roofs
associated with the south of France. Arriving in
Mâcon brings you into a famous wine-growing
area. Then the scenery changes to woodland
and cliffs. All along the route, there are plenty
of stopping places including ports de plaisance
in most of the riverside towns. With only 5 locks
to cope with a very modest fall, you can reckon
on 20–25 hours to cover the 170km to Lyon,
unless you are tempted to dawdle awhile and
perhaps explore a short length of the beautiful
Doubs river.
Through the French Canals by David Jefferson is
published by Adlard Coles and out now:
Bloomsbury.com
The Good Life France | 91
C’est la vie:
Learn French
French is a Romance language, meaning it
comes from what is known as Vulgar Latin
(spoken Latin as opposed to literary Latin).
French evolved, influenced by Gallic, Anglo-
Norman and regional languages of what is
now modern France over hundreds of years to
become the modern French we know today.
English is a Germanic language that’s heavily
influenced by Romance languages, such as
300 years of French being the official language
of England thanks to William the Conqueror!
French tongue twisters
You’re actually already au fait with quite a
lot of French vocabulary say the experts at
Newsdle, the news-based learning app – it’s
just that the way the words are pronounced
can be very different. Avant-garde, bureau,
cabaret, detour… they’re the same in both
English and French, as are thousands of words.
The more you think about it, the more you
realise that often it’s a matter of pronunciation
(and speed of talking) that differentiates
LINK https://www.newsdle.com/
92 | The Good Life France
French from English. Had déjà vu lately? In
a restaurant or café, you may start the meal
with an aperitif, perhaps Champagne, and you
may find pâté or omelette is served and end
with soufflé or mousse for dessert.
When it comes to tongue twisters –
virelangues – it gets a little more challenging
but you’re sure to recognise some of the words
in these examples:
Les chaussettes de l’archiduchesse sont-elles
sèches, archi-sèches?
Are the Archduchess’ socks dry, very dry?
Or how about this tongue twister that’s full of
words that sound the same, but are written
differently, known as homophones:
Si six scies scient six cyprès, six cents scies
scient six cent cyprès
If six saws saw six cypresses, six hundred saws
saw six hundred cypresses
And this one is perfect for practicing your ‘on’s
and ‘en’s and ‘ou’s and ‘ue’s:
‘Tonton, ton thé t’a-t-il ôté ta toux’ disait la
tortue au tatou. ‘Mais pas du tout’, dit le tatou.
‘Je tousse tant que l’on m’entend de Tahiti à
Tombouctou.’
‘Uncle, your tea has cured your cough,’ said
the tortoise to the armadillo. ‘Not at all,’ said
the armadillo. ‘I cough so much that you can
hear me from Tahiti to Timbuktu.’
Practice your French language reading
and speaking skills and learn more about
France with Newsdle’s fun and easy to use
news-based app – and get 25% off, just
pop in the goodlife25
newsdle.com
https://www.goutetvoyage.com/
The Good Life France | 93
Your Photos
Every weekend we invite you to share your photos on Facebook – it’s a great way for
everyone to “see” real France and be inspired by real travellers snapping pics as they go.
Every week there are utterly gorgeous photos being shared, and here we showcase just a
few of the most popular. Share your favourite photos with us on Facebook, the most ‘liked’
will appear in the next issue of the The Good Life France Magazine
Salers, Cantal by Barbara Pasquet James
The department of Cantal in the
Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region is a rather
secret place. A land of lakes and rivers,
volcanoes, forests and mountains. There
are peaceful villages, medieval towns and
cities in this agricultural area. And it’s
famous for its delicious cheese.
94 | The Good Life France
Paris in the spring by Yvonne Rodriguez
Wisteria blooms in paris usually in May and at
Aux Vieux Paris d’Arcole restaurant (The building
was competed in 1512) the wisteria was planted in
1946 and has its own special licence to grow big!
https://www.facebook.com/goodlifefrance/
Join us on Facebook and
like and share your favourite
photos of France...
The Good Life France | 95
96 | The Good Life France
info@leggett.fr
https://www.frenchestateagents.com/
https://www.frenchestateagents.com/french-property-for-sale/view/A07741/
house-for-sale-in-mauron-morbihan-brittany-france
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house-for-sale-in-contr%C3%A9-charente-maritime-poitou-charentes-france
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house-for-sale-in-nizan-gessehaute-garonne-midi-pyreneesfrance
Brantome, Dordogne by Ian Walls
Brantôme is pretty enough to be pictured on the lid
of a chocolate box. The most well-known attraction
of the town is the magnificent Benedictine Abbey.
The original was built by Charlemagne in the 8th
century. Rebuilt in the 11th century, it is now the
location of town hall and art museum.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Janine-Marsh/e/B071Y4RTMM?ref=sr_ntt_srch_lnk_2&-
qid=1646217925&sr=8-2
The Good Life France | 97
Auxerre
Central France
Benefitting from historically low mortgage rates and with a wide choice of
properties to choose from, it’s no wonder that so many home buyers are looking at
the spectacular value that Central France offers says Leggett Immobillier’s Area
Co-ordinator Kevin Andrews.
98 | The Good Life France
We have more than our fair share of glorious
châteaux, sumptuous country estates and
swanky ski chalets and you will find some of
the lowest priced, best value, property
in France.
Much of this area is rural France at its best.
With unspoiled views, peaceful towns and
villages, where “local produce” means that the
person selling the fruit and veg probably dug it
up or picked it that morning.
Ignoring the newly created map of France,
we’re labelling central France as the four
traditional regions of Centre, Limousin,
Auvergne and Burgundy. Each of them has a
very different landscape and “feel” but all share
the common traits of beautiful countryside,
friendly locals, historic towns and great value.
Centre
Centre is renowned for having the most
beautiful collection of historic châteaux in
the world. Scattered along the lovely river
Loire they seem to dominate the landscape
and provide a stunning backdrop to the
countryside. The popular towns of Orléans and
Tours are welcoming, pretty and packed full of
historic buildings. Buy a house within striking
distance of either and you’ll never be short of
something to do on a rainy day.
The Good Life France | 99
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100 | The Good Life France
Limousin
Limousin has been my home for many years. I
moved across with my family and we saw our
quality of life sky-rocket. We are surrounded
by clean air, open spaces and delicious food.
The region is best known to holidaymakers
for its outdoor pursuits, thanks to the
proliferation of rivers that flow through
the area, as well as numerous springs and
lakes. Cycling, sailing, canoeing, kayaking
and fishing are very popular such as at
Lac Vassivière, a man-made lake of 1000
hectares where you can swim and do all
manner of water sports as well enjoy walking
trails and boat rides to a central island with a
sculpture park, café and museum. Summers
here are long and hot.
This is the least populated region in mainland
France, though that doesn’t mean there’s
not plenty to do year-round. A roll-out of
high speed fibre optic in Limousin as well
as Government support for the area to
be rejuvenated as a potential tech centre
has seen both second and permanent
home status rocket in the last two years.
The properties available here are simply
remarkable value for money. The average
house price in my department – Haute
Vienne, which is home to the city of Limoges,
is €121,500 while in the neighbouring Creuse
they are just €80,000!
Burgundy
Burgundy is the place to explore if you like
vineyards, rolling hills and exceptional food.
The locals are proud of the wide choice of
incredible wine they can choose from – much
of it from little known vineyards, off the beaten
track. Local agent knowledge about where to
live is the key here as it’s such a diverse area.
Without that expertise you could miss out on
discovering the most popular villages, where to
get the best wine and which markets offer the
freshest produce. If you enjoy the finer things
in life you’ll love Burgundy.
e Puy en Velay
Burgundy
Auvergne
Limousin cattle
Auvergne has the most dramatic landscape
of all the regions. It’s a land of dormant
volcanoes, hulking mountain ranges and
bustling towns and cities. If you like the
outdoor life then this region has to be on your
shortlist. Hiking, biking, skiing, snow-boarding
and jumping off the side of a mountain in a
wing suit are just some of the madcap things
on offer. And, if you like being close to a ski-lift
but find the prices in the Alps or Pyrénées a
little heady then take a look in the Auvergne.
Mont Dore ski resort at the foot of Puy de
Sancy is ideal for beginners, intermediates
and families. The resort has a connection to
Besse ski resort. A Spa town with traditional
restaurants, shops, ice skating rink, bowling
alley, casino and cinema. Equally as busy with
summer activities and music festivals. It’s ideal
for permanent residence, a holiday home or
just a rental investment with almost all year
round rental potential.”
The average house price in the Puy de Dome
is just €160,000.
Find out more properties in the Auvergne
The Good Life France | 101
Beacon Global Wealth Management
Standing out, amongst the best
UK and French financial advice
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102 | The Good Life France
What is a
French Assurance Vie
We talk to Paul Flintham, an International Financial
Advisor at Beacon Global Wealth about the
Assurance Vie…
Well, literally translated it means Life
Insurance, but actually it’s quite different
from the life insurance policy you might be
used to in say the UK. An Assurance Vie
is essentially a life insurance wrapper that
holds investments. It’s available to French tax
residents, including foreign nationals living
in France and as well as offering inheritance
advantages, it’s one of the most versatile and
efficient tax structures in France.
Key points of an Assurance Vie (AV)
Tax: Investments held within the wrapper are
not subject to capital gains tax or income
tax while the funds stay inside the policy and
no withdrawals are made. You can withdraw
capital tax-free, only the growth element of
any withdrawal is subject to tax. You must
declare the growth every year you on your
annual tax form, but no tax is paid unless you
make a withdrawal. Even then the tax is only
paid on the ‘growth’ part and after 8 years,
there is an income-tax-free allowance of
€4,600 per person (Social Tax is still payable).
An AV may also be held in joint names,
meaning an allowance of €9,200 per couple
(tax is paid by couples in France).
Inheritance: Assets within an Assurance Vie
may be dispersed as you wish on death, and
there are tax advantages for beneficiaries.
If you open the AV before you reach 70,
beneficiaries of an AV have an (extra)
allowance of up to €152,500 each before
tax. Compared to €1594 which is the normal
allowance for non-relatives (this also includes
unmarried partners in France). If you open the
A.V. after you’re 70, the allowance drops to
€30,500 per person.
Currency: International AV versions can
hold different currencies, which is useful if the
foreign exchange rate isn’t favourable, and
you have assets in different currencies.
If you are tax resident in France and hold
PEPS or ISA’s, you will have to declare the
accounts and amounts on your French tax
return. If you opened an AV your tax would be
deferred until you take a withdrawal.
This is a simple view of how an Assurance Vie
works but for many people this is an excellent
investment vehicle for tax savings and for
inheritance planning.
If you’d like to find out more or have questions
about how to maximise your investments,
contact Beacon Global Wealth for an
obligation free consultation at:
enquiries@bgwealthmanagement.net
beaconglobalwealth.com
The information on this page is intended as an introduction only
and is not designed to offer solutions or advice. Beacon Global
Wealth Management can accept no responsibility whatsoever for
losses incurred by acting on the information on this page.
Beacon Global Wealth Management are members of Nexus
Global (IFA Network). Nexus Global EU is a division of Blacktower
Financial Management (Cyprus) Limited (BFMCL) and Blacktower
Insurance Agents & Advisors Ltd (BIAAL). Beacon Global Wealth
Management is an Appointed Representative of BFMCL which
is licensed and regulated by the Cyprus Securities & Exchange
Commission (CySEC) - Licence No. 386/20. Beacon Global
Wealth Management is an Appointed Representative of BIAAL
which is licensed and regulated by the Insurance Companies
Control Service (ICCS) - Licence No. 5101
The Good Life France | 103
Croissants
104 | The Good Life France
Photo: © Caroline Faccioli
If you’ve ever sighed over a photo of croissants and
wished you could make them at home – then read on…
A Makes 12–15 (1¼ lb./600 g dough)
Active time: 1 hour
Chilling time: 4–5 hours (preferably
overnight)
Rising time: 4 hours
Cooking time: 15 minutes
Storage: Up to 2 months in the
freezer in a sealed bag
(see Chef’s Notes)
EQUIPMENT
Instant-read thermometer
Stand mixer fitted with the dough hook
2 silicone baking mats (or parchment paper)
Rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment
paper
INGREDIENTS
Water dough
1⁄3 oz. (10 g) fresh yeast (see Chef’s Notes)
1 tbsp (15 ml) lukewarm water
2 tbsp (25 g) sugar
1½ tsp (7 g) fine salt
1 tbsp (20 g) butter
¼ cup (60 ml) water
¼ cup (60 ml) whole milk +
1 tbsp for the sugar and salt
2 cups (9 oz./250 g) bread flour
For laminating
1 stick + 1 tbsp (4½ oz./130 g) butter, at room
temperature
1 egg, lightly beaten
METHOD
1. To prepare the water dough, dissolve the
yeast in the lukewarm water in a small
bowl. In a separate bowl, stir the sugar
and salt into the 1 tbsp milk until dissolved.
2. Heat the 1 tbsp (20 g) butter in a small
saucepan with the water and milk,
until the butter has melted and the
temperature reaches 86°F (30°C).
3. Sift the flour into the bowl of the stand
mixer. Beat in the sugar/salt/milk mixture
on low speed, then the warm butter/milk
mixture. Finally, mix in the dissolved yeast.
4. Continue kneading until the dough is
smooth, comes away from the sides of the
bowl, and is just warm to the touch (about
1 minute).
5. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and
let the dough rise at room temperature,
ideally around 77°F/25°C, until doubled
in volume (about 1 hour).
6. Dust a shallow baking dish with flour
and press out the dough over the base.
Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate
for 2–3 hours.
7. To laminate the dough, remove the butter
from the refrigerator about 30 minutes
ahead, so it will be easier to work with.
Place between the two silicone baking
mats or two sheets of parchment paper,
then beat with a rolling pin to make the
butter as malleable as the dough. Cut into
2 equal pieces, wrap 1 piece, and return it
to the refrigerator.
8. On a lightly floured surface, roll the
dough into a rectangle three times as
long as it is wide.
9. Cut the butter into small pieces. Dot
these evenly over the bottom two-thirds
of the dough: the butter should be slightly
softer than the dough at this point. Fold
the top third of the dough down over the
butter and the bottom third up. Give the
The Good Life France | 105
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106 | The Good Life France
folded dough a quarter turn and roll into a
rectangle again. Fold in thirds as before.
Cover in plastic wrap and chill for at least
2 hours, or, for best results, overnight.
10. When ready to proceed, remove the
remaining butter from the refrigerator and
leave it at room temperature for about
30 minutes. Beat with a rolling pin until
malleable, as described in step 7, and
repeat the rolling and folding instructions
(steps 8–9) with the chilled dough and
butter. After giving the dough a quarter
turn, in the same direction as before, roll
it into a rectangle measuring about 8 × 10
in. (20 × 25 cm). Cover with plastic wrap
and chill for 1 hour.
11. To form the croissants, roll the dough into
a rectangle measuring 6 × 17½ in. (15 ×
45 cm), with a thickness of about 1⁄8 in.
(3 mm). Cut into 12–15 triangles with a
narrower, 2–3-in. (6–7.5-cm) base.
12. Roll up each triangle from the base
to the tip. Place on the baking sheet,
leaving space between each one. The
croissants can now be frozen, if desired
(see Chef’s Notes).
13. Brush the croissants with beaten egg to
prevent them drying out while rising. Let
rise for about 2 hours in a warm place
(about 82°F/28°C), until doubled in
volume. Toward the end of the rising
time, preheat the oven to 400°F
(200°C/Gas Mark 6).
14. Brush the croissants with the
remaining beaten egg; brush lightly
so as not to deflate them. Bake for
15 minutes until deep golden brown.
If necessary, rotate the baking sheet
toward the end of the baking time
so they brown evenly. Cool on a
wire rack.
Chef’s Notes
• Croissants are traditionally made using
fresh yeast, as it gives the best results. If
fresh yeast is unavailable, you can substitute
2¼ tsp (7 g) active dry yeast or 1½ tsp (5 g)
instant yeast. Instant yeast must be mixed
directly into the flour before any liquid is
added, rather than dissolved in the water,
which can be omitted.
• If freezing, place the unbaked croissants
on the baking sheet in the freezer until
solid, then place them in a freezer bag,
seal, and return to the freezer. Let them
thaw overnight in the refrigerator, on a
baking sheet lined with parchment paper,
then proceed with steps 13 and 14.
Extracted from French
Pastries and Desserts
by Lenôtre: 200 Classic
Recipes Revised and Updated
(Flammarion, 2021).
The Good Life France | 107
Chocolate
Croissants
108 | The Good Life France
Photo: © Caroline Faccioli
Makes 15
Active time: 10 minutes +
making the croissant dough
Rising time: 2 hours
Cooking time: 18 minutes
for each baking sheet
Storage: Up to 2 months in
the freezer (unbaked),
in a sealed freezer bag
EQUIPMENT
Instant-read thermometer
Stand mixer fitted with the dough hook
2 silicone baking mats (optional)
2 rimmed baking sheets lined with
parchment paper
INGREDIENTS
Water dough
1⁄3 oz. (10 g) fresh yeast (see Chef’s Notes)
1 tbsp (15 ml) lukewarm water
2 tbsp (25 g) sugar
1½ tsp (7 g) fine salt
1 tbsp (20 g) butter
¼ cup (60 ml) water
¼ cup (60 ml) whole milk +
1 tbsp for the sugar and salt
2 ¾ cups (9 oz./250 g) bread flour
For laminating
1 stick + 1 tbsp (4½ oz./130 g) butter
Chocolate filling
30 pain au chocolat sticks, weighing 1⁄6 oz. (5
g) each, or 15 sticks weighing 1⁄3 oz. (10 g) each
(see Chef’s Notes)
1 egg, lightly beaten
METHOD
1. To prepare the water dough, dissolve the
yeast in the lukewarm water in a small
bowl. In a separate bowl, stir the sugar
and salt into the 1 tbsp milk until dissolved.
2. Heat the 1 tbsp (20 g) butter in a small
saucepan with the water and milk,
until the butter has melted and the
temperature reaches 86°F (30°C).
3. Sift the flour into the bowl of the stand
mixer. Beat in the sugar/salt/milk mixture
on low speed, then the warm butter/milk
mixture. Finally, mix in the dissolved yeast.
4. Continue kneading until the dough is
smooth, comes away from the sides of the
bowl, and is just warm to the touch (about
1 minute).
5. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and
let the dough rise at room temperature,
ideally around 77°F/25°C, until doubled
in volume (about 1 hour).
6. Dust a shallow baking dish with flour
and press out the dough over the base.
Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate
for 2–3 hours.
7. To laminate the dough, remove the butter
from the refrigerator about 30 minutes
ahead, so it will be easier to work with.
Place between the two silicone baking
mats or two sheets of parchment paper,
then beat with a rolling pin to make the
butter as malleable as the dough. Cut into
2 equal pieces, wrap 1 piece, and return it
to the refrigerator.
8. On a lightly floured surface, roll the
dough into a rectangle three times as
long as it is wide.
9. Cut the butter into small pieces. Dot
these evenly over the bottom two-thirds
of the dough: the butter should be slightly
softer than the dough at this point. Fold
the top third of the dough down over the
butter and the bottom third up. Give the
folded dough a quarter turn and roll into a
rectangle again. Fold in thirds as before.
Cover in plastic wrap and chill for at least
2 hours, or, for best results, overnight.
10. When ready to proceed, remove the
The Good Life France | 109
110 | The Good Life France
https://thegoodlifefrance.com/
emaining butter from the refrigerator and
leave it at room temperature for about
30 minutes. Beat with a rolling pin until
malleable, as described in step 7, and
repeat the rolling and folding instructions
(steps 8–9) with the chilled dough and
butter. After giving the dough a quarter
turn, in the same direction as before, roll
it into a rectangle measuring about 8 × 10
in. (20 × 25 cm). Cover with plastic wrap
and chill for 1 hour.
11. Roll the dough into a rectangle measuring
35 × 6 in. (90 × 15 cm), with a thickness of
about 1⁄8 in. (3 mm), and cut into 15 equalsized
smaller rectangles.
12. Place 1 large or 2 small chocolate sticks
near the base of each rectangle and roll
up the dough around the sticks to enclose
them. Divide the croissants between the
baking sheets, seam side down, leaving
space between each one. The tops
can be scored using a bread knife for a
decorative effect. The croissants can now
be frozen, if desired (see Chef’s Notes).
13. Brush the croissants with a little beaten
egg to prevent them from drying out while
rising. Let rise at room temperature for
about 2 hours, until doubled in volume.
Toward the end of the rising time, preheat
the oven to 400°F (200°C/Gas Mark 6).
14. Lightly brush the tops of one sheet of
croissants with half the remaining beaten
egg, taking care not to deflate the dough.
Place immediately in the oven and bake
for 18 minutes, until deep golden brown.
If the croissants are browning too quickly,
reduce the heat to 350°F (180°C/Gas
Mark 4). Rotate the baking sheet toward
the end of the baking time, if necessary,
so they brown evenly. Brush the tops of
the second sheet of croissants with the
remaining beaten egg and bake in the
same way.
15. Cool the croissants on a wire rack.
Chef’s Notes
• Croissants are traditionally made using
fresh yeast, as it gives the best results. If
fresh yeast is unavailable, you can substitute
2¼ tsp (7 g) active dry yeast or 1¼ tsp (3.5
g) instant yeast. Instant yeast must be mixed
directly into the flour before any liquid is
added, rather than dissolved in the water,
which can be omitted.
• If pain au chocolat sticks are unavailable in
stores, they can be purchased online from
various suppliers.
• If freezing, place the unbaked croissants on
the baking sheet in the freezer until solid,
then place them in a freezer bag, seal,
and return to the freezer. Let them thaw
overnight in the refrigerator, on a baking
sheet lined with parchment paper, then
proceed with steps 4−6.
https://perrytaylor.fr/en/
Extracted from French Pastries and Desserts by
Lenôtre: 200 Classic Recipes Revised and Updated
(Flammarion, 2021).
The Good Life France | 111
Pudding Royal
Brioche
Bread Pudding
112 | The Good Life France
Photo: © Caroline Faccioli
Makes 2 desserts, each
serving 6
Active time: 15 minutes
Infusing time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 50 minutes
EQUIPMENT
2 × 9-in. (23-cm) round porcelain baking
dishes, 1½ in. (4 cm) deep
Electric hand beater
Large baking pan for the bain-marie
INGREDIENTS
For the baking dishes
3 tbsp (1¾ oz./50 g) butter
2 tbsp (25 g) sugar
Custard
3 cups (750 ml) whole milk
1 Bourbon Madagascar vanilla bean,
split lengthwise
5 eggs (1 cup/250 g)
8 egg yolks (scant 2⁄3 cup/160 g)
1½ cups (10½ oz./300 g) Sugar
METHOD
1. Preheat the oven to 340°F (170°C/Gas
Mark 3). Grease the baking dishes with
the butter, then sprinkle with the sugar
until coated.
2. To prepare the custard, pour the milk into
a saucepan. Scrape in the vanilla seeds
and add the bean.
3. Bring to a simmer, then remove from the
heat. Cover and let infuse for 10 minutes.
Remove the bean.
4. Whisk the eggs, egg yolks, and sugar
together for 1 minute until frothy. Slowly
whisk in the warm milk on low speed.
5. To assemble the bread pudding, cut the
brioche into approximately ¾-in. (1.5-cm)
slices. If necessary, chop the dried and
candied fruit into smaller pieces, removing
any pits.
6. Line the bases of the baking dishes with
brioche slices, packing them tightly
together. Spoon the fruit over the brioche
slices. Cut the remaining brioche into
cubes, then scatter them over the fruit in a
single layer.
7. Divide the custard between the dishes.
Place them in the baking pan and pour
in enough hot water to come halfway up
the sides of the dishes. Carefully transfer
to the oven and bake for 50 minutes.
Cover with aluminum foil if the tops
brown too quickly. Remove from the oven
and let cool.
8. Serve at room temperature or chilled, with
vanilla custard sauce, chocolate sauce, or
apricot or raspberry fruit coulis.
To assemble
9 oz. (250 g) leftover day-old brioche
10½ oz. (300 g) assorted dried and candied
fruit (such as golden raisins, currants,
candied cherries)
To serve
Vanilla custard sauce, chocolate sauce or
apricot or raspberry coulis
Extracted from French Pastries and Desserts by
Lenôtre: 200 Classic Recipes Revised and Updated
(Flammarion, 2021).
The Good Life France | 113
Pain De Gênes
French
Almond Cake
114 | The Good Life France
Photo: © Caroline Faccioli
Makes 2 cakes, each
serving 6
Active time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 30 minutes
Storage: Up to 4 days in the
refrigerator or 3 months
in the freezer, wrapped
airtight
EQUIPMENT
2 × 7-in. (18-cm) round cake pans
2 × 7-in. (18-cm) rounds of parchment paper
Stand mixer fitted with the paddle beater
INGREDIENTS
7 tbsp (3½ oz./100 g) butter + more for the
pans
2⁄3 cup (1¾ oz./50 g) sliced almonds
13¼ oz. (375 g) marzipan, roughly chopped
6 eggs (1¼ cups/280 g)
1½ tbsp (15 g) AP flour
1½ tbsp (15 g) potato starch
1 tsp (5 ml) Grand Marnier
1 tsp (5 ml) aged rum
Extracted from French
Pastries and Desserts
by Lenôtre: 200 Classic
Recipes Revised and
Updated (Flammarion,
2021).
METHOD
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C/Gas
Mark 6). Grease the pans with butter
and line the bases with the rounds of
parchment paper to prevent the cakes,
which are fragile, from sticking. Press the
sliced almonds around the sides of the
pans, removing any that do not stick.
2. Beat the marzipan on slow speed in the
bowl of the stand mixer until malleable
and smooth.
3. Add the eggs, one by one, and beat for
5 minutes on medium speed after each
addition. Scrape down the sides of the
bowl as needed. The mixture should be
light and airy.
4. Sift the flour and potato starch into
a bowl.
5. Melt the butter in a saucepan until
foaming. Remove from the heat. Whisk
in about one-quarter of the marzipan
mixture, then the Grand Marnier and rum.
6. Gently fold the flour and potato starch
into the marzipan mixture in the bowl.
Slowly pour in the butter mixture and fold
it in using a spatula.
7. Divide the batter between the pans, filling
them three-quarters full.
8. Bake for 10 minutes, then reduce the
oven temperature to 350°F (180°C/Gas
Mark 4) and bake for an additional 20
minutes, until the cakes are golden and
the tip of a knife inserted into the center
comes out clean.
9. Let the cakes cool completely in the
pans before carefully inverting them onto
flat serving plates, with the parchment
paper uppermost. Carefully peel off the
parchment paper.
Chef’s Notes
• These cakes can be served with chocolate
sauce or vanilla custard sauce, or with a
fresh fruit coulis. They are also delicious on
their own, with a cup of tea.
The Good Life France | 115
Pain D’épices Des Gâtines
Lenôtre Gâtines
Spice Cake
116 | The Good Life France
Photo: © Caroline Faccioli
Makes 2 cakes, each serving 8
Active time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 1½ hours
Cooling time: 1 hour
Resting time: Up to 3 days
(optional, see Chef’s Notes)
Storage: Up to 12 weeks in the refrigerator or
6 months in the freezer
EQUIPMENT
2 × 12-in. (30-cm) loaf pans
Microplane grater
Stand mixer fitted with the paddle beater
INGREDIENTS
1 stick + 2 tbsp (5¼ oz./150 g) butter, diced +
more for the pans
12⁄3 cups (400 ml) water
1 cup + 3 tbsp (14 oz./400 g) golden honey
1¼ cups (9 oz./250 g) sugar
2 oranges
1 lemon
1 cup (3½ oz./100 g) sliced almonds
3½ tbsp (50 ml) anise syrup or 1 tbsp anise
seeds (see Chef’s Notes)
Generous 4¾ cups (1 lb. 3 oz./550 g) whole
wheat flour or 5 cups (1 lb. 3 oz./550 g)
rye flour
¼ cup (1½ oz./45 g) baking powder
Decoration (optional)
Candied orange peel, cut into thin strips the
same length as the width of the cakes
Finely grated orange zest
Extracted from French Pastries
and Desserts by Lenôtre: 200
Classic Recipes Revised and
Updated (Flammarion, 2021).
METHOD
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C/
Gas Mark 6). Lightly grease the loaf pans
with butter and line them with enough
parchment paper to leave an overhang.
2. Heat the water in a saucepan. Stir in the
honey and sugar until dissolved. Add the
butter and stir until it has melted.
3. Wash and dry the oranges and lemon.
Remove the peel in quarters from one
orange and cut it into small dice. Zest the
other orange and the lemon, preferably
using a Microplane grater, as the zest needs
to be very fine. Place the diced peel and
zest in a mixing bowl and add the almonds
and anise syrup or seeds. Stir to combine.
4. Sift the flour and baking powder into
the bowl of the stand mixer. With the
mixer running on low speed, gradually
incorporate the first mixture. Sprinkle in
the citrus peel/almond/anise mixture and
beat until combined.
5. Divide the batter between the pans.
Bake for 30 minutes, then reduce the
temperature to 340°F (170°C/Gas Mark
3) and bake for an additional 1 hour, or
until the tip of a knife pushed into the
center of each cake comes out clean. If
the cakes brown too quickly, cover them
with aluminum foil.
6. Cool the cakes in the pans for at least 1
hour, before serving. If possible, let them
rest overnight or up to 3 days, still in
their pans (see Chef’s Notes). If wished,
decorate the tops of the cakes with strips
of candied orange peel and sprinkle over
finely grated zest before serving.
Chef’s Notes
• There is no need to grind the anise seeds, as
they will disintegrate as the cake bakes.
• Although the spice cakes can be eaten 1
hour after being removed from the oven,
they will be easier to slice and their flavors
will have had time to develop if they are
stored in their pans for 2–3 days.
The Good Life France | 117
Our local bar is the sort of place where everyone has an opinion about absolutely
everything, and they love to complain. The goings on at the Champs-Elysées
Palace are spoken of as if we are all on first name terms with the President, the
Prime Minister and the various political agencies – of which are there are many in
France. If you didn’t know better, you might well believe that many of the villagers
spent the week in Paris moonlighting as eavesdropping staff in governmental
offices. According to just about everyone, Monsieur Macron isn’t nearly as
interesting as some of his previous incumbents, Monsieur Sarkozy for instance
had everyone going due to his aversion to cheese. And Monsieur Hollande was a
constant source of fascination and complaint thanks to his many girlfriends and
predilection for riding through Paris on the back of a small motorbike.
There actually was a poll held in France quite recently about what French people
complain about most and it probably comes as no surprise to find out it was – the
government. I’m sure it is the same everywhere.
Complaining, loudly, is a very French thing. For the last I don’t know how many
years, immediately after meeting Jean-Claude and sharing a kiss on the cheeks
and saying bonjour, the first words out of his mouth will always be complaints
about the weather, it’s too hot, too cold, too wet, too dry, too foggy, too frosty.
Born in London, I am not generally a loud complainer. We Brits tend to sigh loudly
and mumble insults under our breath “pushing in up there, did you see that?” we’ll
say, but we won’t confront the push-inner.
In France though, if you don’t learn to complain, you’ll stick out like a sore thumb.
For the French, it’s not just about letting those negative feelings out, it’s about
connecting with your tribe, bonding.
With all that’s going on in the world, I count my blessings every day and rarely find
anything to complain about for myself. But, in the interests of fitting in, now, if
anyone complains here, I simply nod and say “oui, oui, I know, I agree.”
Truly I am starting to feel French…
Janine
Last
Word
Janine Marsh lives in France with her husband and 72 animals. Her latest book,
Toujours la France: Living the Dream in Rural France, is out in spring 2022 on
Amazon and all good book shops
118 | The Good Life France
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info@leggett.fr
The Good Life France | 119
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